Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What is the piping like on the inside.

I just saw some real bad piping kits on NS.

Inside the piping was really bad.

Have u seen the topic posted.

How are these kits on the inside they look really good on the out?

Pics if possible.

Thanks

THe piping is great on the inside, No problems. Mine had a little bit of grease from the mandrel press I just presure hosed it out..

I haven't seen the topic posted but I have seen some bad kits on sau the welding was crap!!! ... This kits only has 1 weld and that is for the boost line... Perfect weld.

Ask the others who have bought this kit. Not one complaint :P ...

Trust I would be putting this kit on my own R33 if it was crap.

yeah just read that thread on NS.. Apparently the kits where made from copper and pvc piping.. well I can promise you my kits are made from aluminum.. Man they must have been cheap..

how many kits for r32 u got left? coz if u can buy one now n hold it for me for like weeks ill pay u $450 for the kit sent to canberra wat u say? if u wanna ask me any questions jus call me on 0432453535 ok thanks

Edited by cuong nguyen

Great quality kits, and very easy to modify if you have something other than the standard 300x600 intercooler. Heres some pics of the kit modified to fit a GTR intercooler in an R33 GTS-T.

post-19808-1125279338.jpg

post-19808-1125279366.jpg

post-19808-1125279391.jpg

post-19808-1125279416.jpg

post-19808-1125279442.jpg

post-19808-1125279485.jpg

post-19808-1125279618.jpg

Edited by courier33

Just picked mine up then.

Verrry good piping, really impressed.

Cant wait to install it.

Pictures coming soon.

Thanks Rafnel.

Edited by Justin O
  • 3 weeks later...
no probs dude. Im glad you liked the kit.. Still a few kits for sale..

looks great man, just one question, the crossover pipe looks to be very close to the fan blades? once the bonnet is shut and you hit a few bumps.. u sure it wont touch ? Also i noticed the pipe is up against the hot radiator hose .. will this affect performance ? other than that looks smick !

onBOOST247: No the piping does no move around because it is locked in via the hole you make on the driver side and the piping it joins into on the other. Radiator hose , yes it in close but nothing to worry about.

I had to cut the fan blade a little bit off the edges. Motor temp is still the same.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...