Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry Buggor34

Group buy has finished.

But, I'm doing an R33 GTR and R33 GTS-T duct soon, so keep a look out for that and you might get lucky!

Cheers

Pete

this group buy has taken far too long.

Are they really coming or should i go buy another one seriously This is a JOKE!

Almost 5pm and still no news... wouldn't think that it would take TNT 3days to pickup.

an update would be appreciated !!

Gentlemen

I'm EXTREMELY sorry about this delay.

The boxes have been sitting on the dispatch bench at work since last week.

They are boxed up to go TNT Express, but here's what happened. They are going on my companies account. They are extremely strict about payments for the account. My accounts guy missed the payment so the account was put on hold. I didn't know this when I boxed them up, and now I'm in China untill the end of the week so I can't take them to the post office.

However, the account has now been paid and I expect them to be picked up Friday or Monday.

Again, this shouldn't have happened, and the guides have genuinly been boxed up for about a week now.

I would have been sending more frequent updates, but the internet here is extremely slow and jsut downloading this page took about 1 minute, hence things don't happen fast.

Please accept my apologies.

BASS OUT

Hi Guys,

I'm so pissed off with the people at my work you wouldn't believe it.

Because the accounts all messed up, the boxes haven't left yet.

They are sitting next to a bunch of spare parts for my work customers and now everyone is pissed off at me because of all these boxes not going.

It's Melbourne Cup day down here, and I'm the only one at work, so I can't do much to get them out today, but if the account hasn't been sort by the end of this week and they haven't left, I'll just take them up to the post office and send them that way and I'll have to make up the difference in price.

Again, I'm very sorry for this unacceptable delay.

BASS OUT

don't sweat it too much BASS .... if you were a business making the usual 50-100% profit/markup, then we would have the right to be mad at you. Since you are doing it for no return whatsoever, and it has been nothing but a giant pain in the ass for you, I have no problem with the delays.

How about r32 gtst guides. hint hint.

Also, if i draw one up on autocad or whatever, can you make it for me for a decent price?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...