Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If You Guys Can Give Me A Rough Idea Of What This Should Make On A Rb25det

Mods Include

Gt35r .82 Exhaust Housing

High Mount Exhaust Manifold

Tial Wastegate

Forward Facing Inlet Xf Throttle Body

750cc Injectors

Tomei Poncams

Tomei Headgasket

Haltec Computer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81859-what-sort-of-power-should-this-make/
Share on other sites

I know this isnt answering ya question but make sure u can use a XF tps with ya ecu. PowerFCs cant. I found out the hard way :D

i'll be trying to modify the standard tps somehow first.

if that can't be done i'll grab a haltec one and rig that up

If You Guys Can Give Me A Rough Idea Of What This Should Make On A Rb25det

Mods Include

Gt35r .82 Exhaust Housing

High Mount Exhaust Manifold

Tial Wastegate

Forward Facing Inlet Xf Throttle Body

750cc Injectors

Tomei Poncams

Tomei Headgasket

Haltec Computer

Have you got forgies to go with alll that stress

Some like to run leaner with less ignition timing and some richer with more ignition timing. But generally they end up making roughly the same power.

Personally I like the richer with more ignition timing method.

A tune should consist of fiddling with cam centerlines and combine that with the fuel and ignition setup. I could then see a 50rwkw difference.

Apart from that I doubt it would vary by anymore than 20rwkw or so by only tuning via the ign. and fuel maps.

That is providing the tuner isn't completely stupid and pulls shiet loads of ignition timing out.

This is dangerous in its self as less ignition timing = a higher EGT.

Exactly why I like the richer and more ignition timing. Lower EGT.

i was after more towards a HP rating as thats given by what wheels are used.

i dont think they run anything but a .7comp

well im pretty sure gcg quote them at 700hp

but people argue anwhere from 650-700 if thats what you were after

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...