Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

my new r32 gtr has tein coilovers, not sure what model, but there is the most frustratingly loud banging noise from the rear over every bump!

i have never had coilovers before and these came with the car so i dont know what to expect, the car is not excessively lowered, guards are about 2inches off the rubber (i imagine its set to stock ride height).

there appear to be no other suspension mods.

but this deep banging/bumping noise is worrying me, i have only had the car 1 day and the clutch has died so i havent had a chance to try and diagnose the problem.

any suggestions/thoughts would be great

cheers

dan

btw im 99% sure its the teins everything in boot (spacesaver and tools etc) is secured pretty well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82497-seriously-loud-ride/
Share on other sites

before you go to all that expense does it sound like a "loose" bang or a tight one? I pulled the back seats out and stuff to find something floating around loose beneath the parcel shelf. might be worth a look if it's a "loose" bang

no its a tight bang, its a metallic sound, but not tinny, very solid. and can be pinpointed side from side if i go over a bump or ditch with only the one side then the noise comes from that side(obviously)...

if fate decides a rebuild, would it be cheaper to just get bilsteins?

and any suggestions where to get tein's rebuilt in sydney (or australia!)

thanks

dan

no its a tight bang, its a metallic sound, but not tinny, very solid. and can be pinpointed side from side if i go over a bump or ditch with only the one side then the noise comes from that side(obviously)...

if fate decides a rebuild, would it be cheaper to just get bilsteins?

and any suggestions where to get tein's rebuilt in sydney (or australia!)

thanks

dan

www.bilstein.com.au is the best place to get it done.

It's not cheaper to get a whole new suspension set up.

Bilsteins cost $250 per corner (x4 = $1000) and then its around $400 to put them in.

im guessing that means yeh theyre fooked? and im fooked because its not cheap to rebuild?

Well if you have no money to fix it up then yes, you're stuffed. :headspin:

You could go for a cheaper set of replacement shocks. I think Aussie made ones like Pedders will be cheaper.

Do you have any pics of your car?, MAYBE (i'm just guessing) that its the wheels you have MIGHT have the wrong offset and are sitting outside the guard so when you go over a bump, the wheels actually hit the wheel arch (makes a similar sound), i guess it doesn't hurt to look at every possibility (when i had the wrong offset wheels on my car, the wheel were actually sitting out of the guard a bit) so when i travel on VERY bumpy road it use to hit and make a very annoying sound.

yeh thats the thing, it came with these teins from the dealer...

its ok, its in the shop now,

its gonna get worked!

new rotors, pads, caliper rebuild, braided lines, fluid etc, all round.

new daikin HD clutch and all bits and pieces that go with it.

new bilsteins etc (not 100% sure what will need to be done here yet)

full check over and service.

all in all its gonna be an expensive exercise, but most definately worth it.

hopefully i'll just forward the bill onto the dealership...

(doubt that will work though)

dan

The dealer has a responsibility to sell you a car in working order. If the clutch failed as soon as you bought it, it is their problem to have it fixed and they are legally bound to do so as long as the car was not sold on the agreement of a rooted clutch. You should have gone to them first thing rather than paying yourself to have it fixed. I doubt forwarding the bill onto them will make them pay it.

My 2 cents....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...