Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I put in my new ground cable. It's bigger than the old but I can't take a picture because the digicam is out and about somewhere.

Coincidentally my car now has a crazy bad idle - drops to 800rpm from 1000rpm, when my fan goes on, when I use my power window my lights dim. I think it's unrelated (I suspect my head gasket gone).

Ahh always something :\

re Alternators:

from memory:

if the volts in battery drops then the alternator ups the volts to get battery upto right level i.e. should be charging between 13- 14.4V, if current isnt amps aren't right then it drops the volts and puts more amps into the battery. i.e. you can have a battery showing 12v but it has no guts as it can't put out the amps.

This probably explains why the alternator is putting out 14~v when car is cold, because the battery has just been drained from starting the car, and because cold temps load the battery more.

  • 4 weeks later...

Erm. Why do you need a group buy? Go down to Jaycar and buy 8G or 4G power cable and away you go?!

Either that, or buy an HKS/NISMO/RICER ground kit and waste your money and prove you're just a consumer whore?

:P

Edited by MarkE
Does anyone know exactly where the earths are on an R32 GTR? I know there's battery / chassis and engine / chassis but I think there are other major ones also.

The other 2 main ones I can think of are from the chasis to front and rear subframes. But the main one like you said is battery, chassis, block/engine mount

Erm. Why do you need a group buy?  Go down to Jaycar and buy 8G or 4G power cable and away you go?!

Either that, or buy an HKS/NISMO/RICER ground kit and waste your money and prove you're just a consumer whore?

;)

Even Jaycar's cable is a bit exy, when i was living in Melb i went to a cabling specialist (in Moorabin), paid about half what Jaycar wanted for 4G stuff.
Even Jaycar's cable is a bit exy, when i was living in Melb i went to a cabling specialist (in Moorabin), paid about half what Jaycar wanted for 4G stuff.

Cigweld has amazing quality welders lead for cheaper then Jaycar also. Its very soft and flexable, heaps of sizes. Dont go in asking for X guage, say what you want in mm^2, we arent american.

Yeah Jaycar cable is very expensive. Their margins are very high. If you complain and tell them that, and ask them to do a better price, I've found they will. Hornsby and St Leonards stores have always treated me well.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all, now that these earthing kits are now $50 delivered, (including 5 cables) do they represent good value?

My idle seems to drop a fair bit when i turn the lights on and when winding windows up and down, if i can get all the bits and pieces i need for $50 at my door, ill do something about it.

Otherwise i'll just live with it! (as im really slack eg. had my Jaycar IEBC and DFA kits completed for 4 months and still havent put them in my car. Probably could have paid for them over with the fuel i would have saved.)

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...