Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As anyone here installed titanium exhaust systems, most preferably Cat back!!

Its worth about 200 bucks more than normal stainless or whateva, but is it really worth it??

Also maybe titanium for dump/front pipe, but im yet to find a twin split pipe in titanium..

BUt i wanna know your opinions and if anyone has installed one..

So basically i just need some feedback..

Ohh the car is for series 2 r33..

Thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82903-titanium-exhaust-system/
Share on other sites

As anyone here installed titanium exhaust systems, most preferably Cat back!!

Its worth about 200 bucks more than normal stainless or whateva, but is it really worth it??

Also maybe titanium for dump/front pipe, but im yet to find a twin split pipe in titanium..

BUt i wanna know your opinions and if anyone has installed one..

So basically i just need some feedback..

Ohh the car is for series 2 r33..

Thanks..

i got a full exhaust on my r33 series 2, heres what i did and heres what i found. the jap brand exhaust and titanium dont mean much at all and probably just adds to the cost. your local exhaust shop can probably fit and supply a 3" exhaust for about $1100ish. should include a 3" hiflow cat. then you just need a suitable split dump pipe. batmbl can sell a 3" twin split dump pipe for $400 which connects to the cat. the exhaust place should be able to fit this for you and it should end up costing about $1400 total fitted for 3" twin split dump and 3" hiflow cat and exhaust.

most jap brands are $1300ish delivered then you have to fit it and then get a dump pipe as well. so all in all ask your local exhaust shop for a price to:

supply + fit 3" cat back system with hi flow cat

fit 3" split dump pipe to suit turbo flange and connects to cat

Titanium exhausts are overkill IMO and are only good for vehicles trying to attain an exhaust that can withstand massive amounts of heat (ie. in drag, track vehciles) and wish to lighten there car. It will only lighten it by about 2-5kg over stainless steel so I wouldn't bother.

Save your $200 and spend it on something else.

Titanium exhausts are overkill IMO and are only good for vehicles trying to attain an exhaust that can withstand massive amounts of heat (ie. in drag, track vehciles) and wish to lighten there car. It will only lighten it by about 2-5kg over stainless steel so I wouldn't bother.

Save your $200 and spend it on something else.

actually you'll find a mild steel / stainless steel exhaust will weigh in the region of 20+ kilos, whereas a titanium system will be in the region of 8 - 10...

most jap brands are $1300ish delivered then you have to fit it and then get a dump pipe as well. so all in all ask your local exhaust shop for a price to:

They've come down in price a lot:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82023

LW.

Ok I know its not a Skyline but my CBR600 came with a titanium exhaust fitted from the previous owner (it cost $1000).

Main advantages to me:

1) It is extremley light weight and therfore enhances power/weight ratio and cornering.

2) It DOESN'T get hot AT ALL - which means I don't burn anything when I touch it.

I have a veilside teardrop titanium cat back exhaust for a R34 GTR weights 4.2 kg (standard GTR exhuast is 18kg) it is one of the lightest on the market it is around 3 1/2 inches has no resonator and is a one piece exhaust. Have heard one on a R33 GTR wasn't droney or overly loud they dont seem to be that well known amongst the skyline community but are the exhaust to have amongst alot of the supra boys in the US.

I have a veilside teardrop titanium cat back exhaust for a R34 GTR weights 4.2 kg (standard GTR exhuast is 18kg) it is one of the lightest on the market it is around 3 1/2 inches has no resonator and is a one piece exhaust. Have heard one on a R33 GTR wasn't droney or overly loud they dont seem to be that well known amongst the skyline community but are the exhaust to have amongst alot of the supra boys in the US.

Its not that the Vileside (whoops, bad habit ;)) teardrop exhausts aren't 'known', its that most of use aren't made of out gold. Even titanium exhausts from the less exclusive Japanese manufactures like Trust are expensive let alone those from companies like Vileside, Amuse, Fujitsubo or god forbid ARC.

Its a shame Rezz didn't continue his little commercial venture as he had access to some of the second tier companies that made titanium exhausts.

Its not that the Vileside (whoops, bad habit ;)) teardrop exhausts aren't 'known', its that most of use aren't made of out gold.  Even titanium exhausts from the less exclusive Japanese manufactures like Trust are expensive let alone those from companies like Vileside, Amuse, Fujitsubo or god forbid ARC.

Its a shame Rezz didn't continue his little commercial venture as he had access to some of the second tier companies that made titanium exhausts.

I payed $1150 for it delivered out of japan to sydney and about another $80 to get it up to townsville thats cheaper then most stainless systems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...