Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HICAS is good at high speed along the freeway, but at low speeds and general cornering and flicking the ass out I'm finding that I just don't like how it behaves. Going on other people's comments that's not too uncommon. I wanna slide sideways damnit!

It's quite strange - very different to any other RWD i have driven and i think i've decided over the last few weeks i don't like and want to waste some more tyre :D

I did a bit of a search but not too much in terms of how to remove it. I jacked up the car the other day and found it was a lot more accessible than I thought, just sticking out there little motor behind the rear axle.

Now, can I simply pull out the elec. plugs and that will disable it or is it more complicated than that? I have seen separate HICAS lock kits - where abouts can i find these and are these essential?

For short term i'm happy to do a quick and dirty fix (and just remove elec connections) as long as it works. Longer term if I can do a proper solution and get a locking kit??

Thanx in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

predator666,

If you go to the Whiteline website they have some info on HICAS bypass kits, and I believe are coming out with one of there own. For track use disabling the HICAS is a good idea, but for daily driving I would probably keep it. The bypass kits have tended to be quite expensive, so what you have done is a much cheaper option, but leaves you with the HICAS light on the dash.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-119857
Share on other sites

I'll remove the steering wheel and disconnect it in there - going on a previous post that is the best place to do it. Guess if starts acting too funny I'll connect it back up.

GTS-t VSPEC: true in some ways, but I just don't like the way it handles and it seems its fighting my ass end if if I'm doing corners sometimes the way I do (not all the time!). And in the wet well i'm a bit worried how it will react if i lose traction and it goes sideways. In my old car i knew precisely how to control it when that happened at it was me controlling that back end... in fact i used to do it a bit just for kicks to scare those behind me :D

I want do the bushes fairly soon to give increased traction as well or possibly set it up to try some drifting..not sure, will see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-119913
Share on other sites

Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T, KYB Buzz Spec Shockers (Damper Adjustable)

huh? That is the 2nd one on the page?

I already have adjustable zeal coilovers for the springs - dampner and height adjustable. That should do for now in terms of that side of things.

btw: Its an R33 - sorry for not posting that b4.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-120055
Share on other sites

Thought it might be that one. The R32 one is apparently hyraulic and the R33 is electronic.

Therefore with the R33 it should just be a matter of disabling the electronics. When i think about it though, unless it is actually locked it still might be a bit floaty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-120091
Share on other sites

Originally posted by predator666

Therefore with the R33 it should just be a matter of disabling the electronics. When i think about it though, unless it is actually locked it still might be a bit floaty.

Check out this link

http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

Like you said, for the R33's it's a bit more complicated cause you have to fool the computer and lock the rack.

If you don't lock the rack, you end up with lots of toe in and when turning hard corners the wheels can actually push the fluid around !!!

I've got a Tomei HICAS lock in mine :( but I haven't driven any other R33's so I can't compare.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-120196
Share on other sites

BTW the hicas is only active at speeds above approx 70-80kph, and even then only moves the wheels a max of 1 degree.

I have heard this, but its mainly taking a corner and trying to kick the ass out. It just "feels" funny when i'm doing it - like the ass end is all wobbly. Of course if the wheels are spinning too much wouldn't it think it was going 70-80km/hr and kick in the HICAS?? It could just be a need for stiffer bushes and stuff which i'll get fitted soon

See that is the thing - I don't really know what its doing and would prefer it just to handle like any other RWD which i've driven for years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-120201
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Jay,

Thanks for the link, it sounds like the only real way to do it. I'll have to get the kit when I take it out on the circuit. Is it widly available in Aus?

See'ya :burnout:

No problems :(

I'm pretty sure it's available through UAS or JMS, or they can order it for you. Actually, it might be even cheaper though http://www.takakaira.com/

I was lucky cause my car had it in already when I bought it.

It was funny cause I only found out that it had it about 9 months after I bought it !!!!

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-120228
Share on other sites

Originally posted by CanberraR33

Is it true that if you replace the standard steering wheel on an R33 that then HICAS will be disabled?

When does HICAS activate? Is it constant or only above a certain speed?

I haven't had any experience with the Skyline, however the HICAS on the Zeds is pretty much the same.

The steering angle sensor is mounted in the steering column, so if you change the wheel it may not work properly, will most likely cause a fault code and then the HICAS will disable, similar thing will happen if the steering wheel is not fitted straight.

HICAS is active above approx. 60kph and takes inputs from speed, steering angle, throttle position etc. It's constantly moving the rear wheels to keep the car balanced.

I have some really good info on the HICAS which I can scan and post if anyones interested, explains it fully

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-122634
Share on other sites

all you need to do is unplug the motor to the hicas to eliminate it

crawl under the rear of your car and you will se the motor near the diff

unplug the wires(hicaslight comes on ) and hicas is disabled

you may think that it will move freely now,,,wrong the motor wont move at all its locked into position internaly untill its told to move

the lockout kits are expensive because they have a curcuit to fool the hicas computer into thinking its still working so you dont get the hicas light coming on thats all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8292-removing-hicas/#findComment-122678
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...