Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all ive got a stock standard R33 nissan skyline series 2.I really want to do up my car but not crazy and I dont want to stuff my car up. I want some simple mods. Just a couple of questions.

I want a Exhaust,FMIC and BOV.

Can I add these items without the car running rich or the car ending up running like crap?? I know the car runs rich on the standard ecu.

Do I need to have a dyno tune if I add these items? I had a GFB hybrid BOV had to take it off cause the car kept stalling. Is there a BOV I can use so the car doesnt stall or idle funny. Ive heard people modding there cars and the car having probs I dont want this prob thats why im asking you guys as you know so much more than me.

If you guys have modding ideas tell me id love any imput.

the reason youre car was stalling was because you didnt plug the hose running back to your airbox, this means that instead of sucking through the typical opening in the airbox it bypasses the airflow meter by sucking through this hose, this means the ngine thinks it is getting less air than it really is, to solve that plug the hole. If you have and its still doing this, means your BOV is a POS and is leaking heaps of air.

If im leaving anything out guys lemme know.

Installing a front mount and exhaust wont change how your car runs at all..

hey all ive got a stock standard R33 nissan skyline series 2.I really want to do up my car but not crazy and I dont want to stuff my car up. I want some simple mods. Just a couple of questions.

I want a Exhaust,FMIC and BOV.

Can I add these items without the car running rich or  the car ending up running like crap?? I know the car runs rich on the standard ecu.

Do I need to have a dyno tune if I add these items? I had a GFB hybrid BOV had to take it off cause the car kept stalling. Is there a BOV I can use so the car doesnt stall or idle funny. Ive heard people modding there cars and the car having probs I dont want this prob thats why im asking you guys as you know so much more than me.

If you guys have modding ideas tell me id love any imput.

greetings, did you try a search? ours forums search has been fixed in the last few days so you should have found stacks of results. anyhow.

1) change exhaust is ok and gives good result. try and change dump and front pipe also. 3" split is perfect and highflow cat will give great increase and respsone. batmbl on the forums can sell u a split dump to suit stock turbo and cat

2) ugprade fmic is good for temperature drop. second hand gtr cooler should be fine, no need for a jap brand. hybrid or hybrid hackup brand should be fine also. the $1200 on a hks kit probably isnt justified. if you fit the cooler, do some other mods at the same time, that way you wont notice the extra "throttle lag" the bigger core will give you

3) stick with the stock bov its fine. if you want the noise fit a pod with a cold air intake. the stock bov is very loud in this case and theres no need nor benefit from an aftermarket bov

you can't tune the stock ecu other than put it on the dyno and change the timing like you would in a normal car. if your power sucks or the car is running crappy you should look at

1) ecu reset

2) check plugs (crappy running)

3) check 02 sensor (bad fuel economy)

on full throttle the car will run rich regardless, its designed to do so. you can however make it lean out on cruise and low throttle by making sure you have a good working oxygen sensor (o2 sensor). these die after 50,000 odd and are soely responsible for fuel economy. an apexi safc can lean out your car on full throttle to get some more power and save some fuel also. its a piggyback system. dont run more than 12psi on the stock turbo (or even 10psi) any more just adds more heat and will make it go bang.

that should be plenty of info to keep you busy for a while

3" exhaust & FMIC are valuable mods. if it was me i wouldnt worry about the BOV, the stock pulmb-back one works fine & doesnt attract unwanted attention. buy an apex power fc & get all your tuning sorted out, and you should have a very quick car.

Wow talk about a quick response. Someone I know told me to come to this website and ask he wasnt kidding when he said it was a good site. Ok so someone mentioned throttle lag when putting on a larger FMIC. What mods should I do to stop this? Does the power fc fix this because for the price $1200 is it even needed? Also the pod filter with cold air intake, ive heard installing a pod could cause the engine to suck in more hot air than cold. Im seriously going to do this cause i want the noise but any suggestions on the best cold air intake to get K&N,Blitz etc???Thanks for the advice so far its been great.

well paul pretty much put you in the right direction there...

i would also start with a full service before modding the car, especially if you have recently bought it

As for the induction side of things, i wouldn't worry about a pod filter. they just attract cops. there is plenty of evidence that putting a k&n panel filter into the stock airbox is just as free-flowing as a pod, and keeps the hot air of the engine bay out. i have this setup and i can hear heaps of sucking noise...

there's nothing you can really do to remove any throttle lag that you might get from a FMIC. that's just what happens. If you fit the 3" exhaust and FMIC you won't even notice the lag there will be just so much more power for you

once you have the exhaust and FMIC fitted, i would then get a bleed valve to up the boost to about 10-11psi. that should be safe with the FMIC and your setup. Take it to a dyno and pay for an hour's time (about 110). they can changethe boost for you, alter the timing, make sure the car is running fine and SAFE and you will walk away a very happy man

so, summing up i would go:

- full service: oil, plugs, trans, fuel filter (maybe $100)

- K&N panel air filter ($100)

- custom-made 3" exhaust turbo back ($1200)

- FMIC and piping ($600)

- bleed valve ($50)

- time on the dyno ($110)

total: just over $2k for a great increase of about 50kW or so...

happy moddding :unsure:

Warren.

Yeh i'll get a full service done before hand. Ive had the car for a year now, It was quick when I got it but i think ive gotten use to the power. Im still very happy with the way it is now but i like the look of the exhaust,FMIC and the turbo sound the engine makes when on boost. So a K&N panel filter are better than pods i read the exact same thing in hot4's. Gives out a sucking sound? Is it anyway close to the sound of a pod or blow off valve? I hate the loud psst sound but a nice subtle sound similar is what would be nice. Im not so sure about the bleed valve though and increasing boost because boost would already be increased by the exhaust anyways wouldn't it. Then I need to look at engine management like power fc and also a fuel cut defender. Gets too messy i want something simple. Yeh a dyno tune would be a must.

Ok so far on my shopping list is

- Turbo back exhaust

-FMIC (Im going to get a Hybrid R33 kit)

- K&N panel filter.

- 1 hour dyno tune

So from what I gathered this would give me the look and sound im after right?

Oh and quickly on a cold start is it normal for the car to begin revving at 1,000rpm for like a couple of seconds then rise quick to like 1,500 then after a good warm up returning to the normal idle range? Smoke comes out of the exhaust when warming up but is good once warm is this normal also.

Sorry for the tonnes of questions.

ahhh shit, what colour smoke is it?

That doesn't sound good at all. you might want to get a leakdown and compression test. (about $70)

But if you want a car that sounds awesome, and goes well.

Here's my setup.

FMIC

Power FC and full tune

Full Exhaust, split dump, high flow cat

Stainless Turbo to AFM duct

Boost at 12psi Via $30 bleed valve (fine for stock turbo, but not for standard ecu)

if you want awesome sound, and you want to hear the stock blowoff valve, do this -

pod%20bracket.jpg

Hey R33_Series2Lover,

As the guys have suggested free up your intake and zorst.

If you get a pod buy a sheild from Linton at garage debris (<--- do a search on this) and then pipe something from the front bar to the box so you get enough cold air into your motor (this is easy if you have hybrid style piping cause you wil have a hole to plumb the pipe through where the old intercooler piping was :P ).

That sorted buy the 3" split dump off Batmbl in the link above and if you can the new catco cat. (Later on invest in a cat back.)

If you can it is also a good idea to beef up your fuel and cooling systems i.e. intercooler, fuel pump and radiator etc (but not a nessesity if your only doing very mild modifications). This all adds to reliability.

The PFC will increase drivability and power provided its tuned properly (add $400~800 for this) but once you throw a PFC at a skyline it realy unleashes a monster. :(

New O2 sensor, vacuum lines, hoses, fan belts, oil catch cans, new plugs etc and a bit of time will ensure you reliability also.

A few words of advice however for when you begin to modify you ride!!!

1. Once you start you cant stop. It becomes so addictive you'll start having dreams about your next mod :unsure:

2. Shop around when buyin parts and do your research on the prduct before jumping into something.

Im realy starting to ramble on now arent i well better stop i spose neway good luck modifying your ride.

Cool yeh im going to research i did the mistake once of putting a BOV and the car stalled and I had all sorts of probs. Yeh and with the smoke its a Whitey/dark kind of smoke but only during warm ups. I called the mechanic now and said its probs condensation or just buring extra fuel when warming car up. He told me though if the smoke is blue then start looking for a new engine. never knew smoke could go blue. I had my cars ecu plugged into a console and car isnt running very rich so thats cool.

a boost increase in the order of 1-2psi will be noticable and you won't have to worry about fuel cut, ECU etc.

as for the smoke out the exhust, is it just condensation? that's normal. if its actually smoke then get it checked out by a mechanic...

my friend had a TX5turbo with a pod on it and he was shattered when the sucking sound still wasn't as loud as my K&N filter in the stock airbox. just make sure you take out the padding etc. that's in the airbox that is designed to dampen down the sound...

Warren.

now u got me all worried. I didnt even think about it because it was only during warm up after that its cool. I did tell the guy about the smoke and he said it was because my throttle positioning switch was tampered with. But when I warm up the car some smoke comes out not as much as before butnot to sure if it is infact condensation

lol at R33_Series2Lovers spam hehe

i got a bit worried about my car to blowing smoke turned out the it was just the hot air hitting the cold in the morning!!!

but better to get it checked out than not get it checked out

Yeh true. I did get it checked out plugged my engine to come kind of machine and said it was cause someone tampered with my throttle switch. But it still blows smoke when warming up then stops once car is warm and at idle. He told me car wasnt running rich so cant be that. Damn cars so complicated.

mate, don't stress too much

if its just condensation then this not actually smoke. stand behind the car. it it comes out and stays thick its smoke. if its comes out and blends in with the air quickly then its ust condensation. of course condensation goes away when the car warms up and is completely normal...

i really wouldn't worry about the 'smoke' unless the car is having problems

Warren

PS those links i put up, the intercooler and piping fron Just Jap is BLOODY CHEAP and they are a reputable company. i wouldn't give that a miss if i were you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...