Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting A New Lambda Sensor


Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

Help for the searchers, alternate names.

Oxygen Sensor, Lambda Sensor, O2 sensor, A/F Ratio Sensor, Narrow and Slow A/F Ratio Sensor, Not a Fast and Wide Lambda Sensor

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I figured it was time to have a dedicated Stagea lambda sensor selection, buying, wiring and fitting thread. There is a lot of info but it is spread out in a number of incomplete threads. So I hope this one will cover everything, with your help of course.

I bought a new lambda sensor from my local Repco yesterday, ACA brand part number ROX207 for an EL Falcon cost $77.97 inc GST. It has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 blue. I will cut the wires and connect it to the Nissan plug via connectors as stainless steel wires do not take solder. They are stainless steel to take the heat, copper or aluminium would simply melt.

Pictures would be here, but I can't figure out how to upload.............

:blink: cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi SK,

Ive bought a Repco 'ACA ROX207' oxygen sensor to suit Ford EL. Cost $81. Has 3 wires connecting to a plug; 1 blue wire (by itself in the plug connection), and 2 black wires side by side next to the blue wire.

I hope this is the right one!

Having the Stagea serviced in a few days time (80000km), adding a small body 3inch Catco cat converter (from batmbl), a 3inch stainless single turbo to cat dump pipe (from Just Jap off ebay), a Black Widow car alarm (for insurance sake; thanks Shannons!), a Hybrid EBC (off ebay), an Apexi SAFC II (off ebay), and an R34 GTT intercooler (from member: Ed). With a K&N pod filter and Dayz Special Edition cat-back 3inch mild steel exhaust it should all run well together.

With all of the above fitted and dynoed, hopefully power increases a fair bit, and the fuel issue is 'sort of' fixed with the new O2 sensor.

Once it's all tuned I'll post up a detail of litres per 100kms. And maybe a dyno graph, if it's impressive enough!

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I finish my works website you will be able to buy one off us online a bit cheaper then that, same sensor and used one on mine already with great success :(

Just from memory around $70 but thats with three proper heat shrink connectors :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut off the Ford plug and then I checked the lambda sensor plug (three pin) on the Stagea and BINGO it is the same as the lambda sensor plug on the R32GTST. So I cut off the old R32GTST lambda sensor and then used a crimp joiner to attached the three wires, 2 X blacks to the outside pins and the 1 X blue to the inside pin.

Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility.

The lambda sensor is 22mm, and I have a big 22mm ring spanner that should do the job just nicely. Remove the old lambda sensor and screw in the new one.

Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility.

Then plug the new lambda sensor in,

Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility.

Fill the Stagea up on the way to work tomorrow and check the fuel economy over the next week or so. I will post up before and after results

:) cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After replacing the o2, how should i go about resetting my ECU?

I am not going to bother, I don't think it makes any difference when you don't have any error codes.

You can unplug the ECU, that resets it. Or unplug the battery and stomp on the brake pedal (with the igntion switch on) a few times to make sure all the power is drained. I hate doing that as the clock looses its time and the radio looses all of it preset stations.

:) cheers ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For some reason, the bolt in my ECU plug has had its head snapped off.... is it time for me to dremel the bastard out (something i am not happy to think about with all those wires there...)

My guess is someone has tried to tighten the bolt up with the plug not aligned. I would drill it and use an easyout. Much neater.

SK - Do O2 sensors wear out ? Would it be good practise to change the one on my 15 YO R32 ?? Even though it seems to be running fine ?

Nissan recommends changing them every 40,000k's. They don't "wear out" in a mechanical sense. They just get contaminated and don't read the A/F ratios properly.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp)

o26me.jpg

Will go ahead and do the swap this weekend, saturday morning. Will do spark plugs at the same time.

Ill take photos while i do it and do a little write up for everyone...its original so its litterally screw out - screw in.

Anyway, ill post back saturday night,

Alex

Edited by AlexCim
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gallery is working, so here is the picture of the Falcon lambda sensor with the R32GTST plug fitted to the wiring harness using crimp connectors.

Lambda_Sensor.jpg

The 7 day fuel economy test is underway, results tomorrow.

:D cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp)

...

Alex

How are you going getting the old one out? I tried today and gave up getting a spanner in.. I've rung around town and nobody seems to have the 'oxygen sensor socket' in stock either...

Edit: and slightly off topic, SK - How did you get the gallery working? Is there something special you have to do/be to post images there? I just went over to it, and cant find any button or menu to upload images...

Ian

Edited by ian
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Over the weekend i went to try to install my new split dump and front... it ended up not fitting so on the way putting everything back, i put in the new O2...

Unfortunatly, this means i have no photos or anything, but its relativly easy to remove your dump pipe (i could probably do it now in around 1 hour)

The OTHER way around it could be like this...

1. remove engine heat sheild

2. remove the top three bolts holding in the brace, take brace off

3. undo the screws holding on the heat cover on the dump pipe

4. replace o2

5. reverse

I could probably help you out doing it if you want, but not this weekend (too many essays due)...next weekend would be fine.

Ill give my fuel economy report too... still yet to fill her up. I replaced my spark plugs at the same time, the old one were pretty rooted.

4.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How are you going getting the old one out? I tried today and gave up getting a spanner in.. I've rung around town and nobody seems to have the 'oxygen sensor socket' in stock either...

Edit: and slightly off topic, SK - How did you get the gallery working? Is there something special you have to do/be to post images there? I just went over to it, and cant find any button or menu to upload images...

Ian

I used a 22mm ring open ender, it was tricky but it worked.

The Gallery works OK, I just went to "My Photos" (it's on the left top) then "Upload Photos" (that's on the right top). "Browse" to where the photos are on your hard drive. Then "Upload/Submit". Pretty simple actually.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Gallery works OK, I just went to "My Photos" (it's on the left top) then "Upload Photos" (that's on the right top).  "Browse" to where the photos are on your hard drive.  Then "Upload/Submit". Pretty simple actually.

:O cheers  :D

ah, that explains it - I have no "My Photos" option, I'll do a post in the right section to say I have a problem..

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp)

o26me.jpg

Will go ahead and do the swap this weekend, saturday morning. Will do spark plugs at the same time.

Ill take photos while i do it and do a little write up for everyone...its original so its litterally screw out - screw in.

Anyway, ill post back saturday night,

Alex

Slightly OT but what was the part number of the o2 sensor you got from nissan? It looks like it has 2 black wires and 1 white or is that correct or something else? oh one last question, how much?

Sorry for so many questions!

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Part number - 22690-83T12

Cost 169.90 or so, delivered to my local nissan spare parts...

Was a 3-4 week wait as well.

So far, the last quart has covered 70km...and still some fuel left in there (about 1/2 quart left)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it. 
    • So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still.  I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate.  There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side.  Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off.  I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at.  Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up. 
    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
×
×
  • Create New...