Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found a 94 R33 GST-t which I’m interested in, excellent condition, tein suspension, 60 000kms white, subtle body kit, after market diff, 3inch exhaust off the turbo, 17 inch and a couple of extras … the price is $24000

I have looked and driven others priced between $19000 and $22000 (the price range I was looking in) some with similar mods.

Any comments on the $24000? I feel it’s a bit high, but the car has great feel about and the quality is the best I have seen so far.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8394-94-r33-gst-t-price-too-high/
Share on other sites

Guest GR33DyMANGO

where is the price quoted? is this an import? if so u could prolly import the same car for about $15g from japan if u act quickly. phone an import broker in brisbane.

ask the queensland section for the name of an import brokers name. the only downside of importing is the long long wait.

$24g in australia still does seem a little high.

that's right blackness.

FYI: the late 95-96 and the seriesII's were a tad better in the engine area. seperate coil packs on each plug, driver airbag, different spoiler etc....not saying they're faster or more superior, just sayin they command a tad higher price :)

I was going to go for a S2, but went for the "S1.5" instead :)

good luck with searching.... :)

If the engine has good compression and if the car is well serviced, not just engine but gearbox and diff, on a regular basis it is well worth the extra $$$.

Ever wonder why there are always theads about fuel ecconomy and people have these enormous differences on the same basic vehicle. Wonder why some less modified cars are faster, and on dyno days produce more power than more modified vehicles.

I looked at many a skyline in Perth before settling with mine. At the time there was a range of prices from 19k to 28k. Plenty of these cars were less than healthy, though to someone not familiar with what a good skyline should be like they all would seem like beasts.

Jap cars that have 'low Kms' are not victims of speedo tampering for the most part. It's not the kms you have to worry about it's the fact that these vehicles spend a great deal of time just idling and being driven 'start -stop' carbon glazing the bores nicely.

Originally posted by Strich9ine

that's right blackness.

FYI: the late 95-96 and the seriesII's were a tad better in the engine area. seperate coil packs on each plug

dont all lines from the 32, maybe even the 31 have seperate coil packs?

i know mine does.

Shaun

rev210

the car was running 0.8 bar but felt as strong as another 94 also running a 3 inch turbo back but running 1.0 Bar .....

Still hard call an extra $2000 to $5000 for the quality ie a FMIC and maybe a power fc

future plans for the car I end up buying will be the usual

FMIC

new ECU

upgraded fuel sys & different turbo

(unless I can find a well priced car that has all this done already)

Blackness,

'Feel' is not always a very good comparison. I'd be inclined to measure.

The extra $2000 to $5000 is what you end up paying to fix the 'cheaper car' down the track.

Buying the extra performance gear with spare change is tempting isn't it. But consider this: I have a car that has had very little done to it, no PFC no FMIC no ECU upgrade and conservative 10psi of boost. It is equal to or even faster than some with these improvements. All I can say is I expect to go faster still when and if I add these things down the track. So you can end up buying all these lovely expensive mods just to end up the same speed as the better condition stockie.

Forget what I said however if you just want the bragging rights to say my car has this that and the other mod dispite it not being able to crack a 13sec 1/4.

Blackness, Buying a imported car does have its benefits, e.g. Cheaper. But a local car you can have a feel to see whether you like it or not.... Also an imported car you can expect to wait for ages once it hits AU.... Have a look at the thread "Compliance Problems.. Help" or something like that

Cheers

Sumo

its a bit too pricy i think, wouldnt pay more than 18-19 grand.its a series 1 aswell i think usaid.

and u can get brand new tein coil cover suspension for $2200 or second hand for just over $1000. for a 94 model its too high.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Congrats on the career change!  I did something similar at the start of the year too, left IT / corporate after nearly 2 decades. Soooo when's the motor coming out for the spark plug change?
    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
×
×
  • Create New...