Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had my 99' r34 GT-T for about 2months tops. In this time; my left head light has not worked, both low beams have not worked and now my right head light doesn't work? wtf is the deal with this. My car has a 3 year warranty, so it is costing me nothing to have them fixed each time. But it is a huge inconvenience having to take my car in to get it's headlights fixed every few weeks.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/
Share on other sites

Did they give you any indication as to what they did to rectify the problems when you took it in?

Sounds like a faulty earth or connection or something, they screw around with the lights at compliance so who knows what kinda wiring is behind there.

Hope you get it all sorted out, i'm getting an r34 shortly hope this isnt a common problem.

As a side note my 2 year old falcon has had the same kind of problems with one of the headlamps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1520309
Share on other sites

They stuff the good xenons and replace them with halogens at compliance shops .

Thats the reason you have problems with them .

I thought it was something like that, so there would be all new wiring for them. What a strange thing to do, the xenons must be to good I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1520807
Share on other sites

I thought it was something like that, so there would be all new wiring for them. What a strange thing to do, the xenons must be to good I guess.

No new wiring at all , they use all the existing wiring , take out the balasts and destroy the xenon fiting to fit a halogen globe . Because the h/light is designed for xenon globes , the light is so poor you cant see at night when its rainning .

The hid globes are 35 watt , the halogens are 55w so the wires get hot and you get a voltage drop as well .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1520876
Share on other sites

Thats is a werid problem i just got my R34 GT-T and there is no light problems with it. Mine is a 98 GT-T, most times they come from Japan with Xeon Units and they are not allowed in Australia because they have auto focusing. For example the ones on Mercs and BMW are manual in the since that you can control the beams.

Iam fairly intested in this problem, tell me how it goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1521482
Share on other sites

When both lights didn't work (only didn't work on lowbeam) they said it was a relay problem. I didn't bother to ask about the one head light, but i will most certainly ask thi time around. Getting quite pathetic, sure am glad I have a 3 year warranty. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1521568
Share on other sites

Jitesh, I think you got it the wrong way round. The European cars are the one with an auto-leveler system (required in AUS) and the Japanese cars don't. The motor gear set required to make them legal would be out of question for most importers. Hence the switch to halogen.

Noxious, if you can get your hands on the original xenons from anywhere... GET THEM! They are worth it and will definitely give you less dramas... not to mention they look FULLY SIK (sorry, just had to add that :P)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1521598
Share on other sites

Jitesh, I think you got it the wrong way round.  The European cars are the one with an auto-leveler system (required in AUS) and the Japanese cars don't.  The motor gear set required to make them legal would be out of question for most importers.  Hence the switch to halogen.

Noxious, if you can get your hands on the original xenons from anywhere... GET THEM! They are worth it and will definitely give you less dramas... not to mention they look FULLY SIK (sorry, just had to add that :P)

To comply with ADR they have to be auto ajusting and self clean .

Xenons have excelent light thats the main thing but the h/light must be designed for xenon , not halogen and then converted .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1521748
Share on other sites

It's not auto levelling.

It's manually adjustable from the cockpit, which my R34 GTT has.

The thing that makes them illegal is the no sech washer system, but that means that there are several OEM cars which are also illegal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1525839
Share on other sites

It's not auto levelling.

It's manually adjustable from the cockpit, which my R34 GTT has.

The thing that makes them illegal is the no sech washer system, but that means that there are several OEM cars which are also illegal.

Dont forget it all depends on the year the car was imported , the self leveling /washer for xenons only came in 3-4 years ago . There is plenty r33 gtrs with them on ( all series III have them ) and a few old 34's around with them but can't be done now , they have to convert them .

I dont know any oem cars that dont comply , here is an example 02 stis have xenons in japan , the local cars have halogens because they wont comply with the 02 ADR .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1525876
Share on other sites

How obvious is it if the xenons have been removed and converted to halogen?

My '98 GT-t has (had?) xenon headlights and I cant see any evidence of anything having been done to them during compliance (I bought the car ready complied and registered). No obviously changed wiring or engraving on the headlight unit or anything. . .

Pete in Perth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1525921
Share on other sites

i have an r34 gtt. they ripped the xenons out for compliance. i had problems with me left hand lowbeam flicking on and off it endined up being a bad earth so i earthed it a little better that was a temporary fix though it was burning out globes every couple of weeks. so i just converted it back to xenon using a kaixen kit from bos importing. works perfectly now i suggest you get a hid kit or change em back to oem xenon. or you will keep having the same problem. i dont know how i coped with standard halogens they sucked xenons are much better.

seeing as its under warranty see if you can get the car dealer to source you some oem xenons. from memory new nissan ones are $2500 good second hands ones were about 1000-1500

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1525927
Share on other sites

I like how no one mentions the fact that the dept of transport and police or whoever knows whats legal and whats not about these cars know about the xenons and why they are removed and how illegal they are to have.

They have been removed for a reason. If you get cought with them its an instant sticker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1525945
Share on other sites

I like how no one mentions the fact that the dept of transport and police or whoever knows whats legal and whats not about these cars know about the xenons and why they are removed and how illegal they are to have.

They have been removed for a reason. If you get cought with them its an instant sticker.

if i worried about what is legal or not when modifying my skyline i might as well have bought a commo dumped it put rims on it and be done with it. Half the cops out there have no idea anyway they just know if it is too low or too loud.

on the brighter side of things though i have been through a few brethos lately and no cops have said anything about the lights.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1526173
Share on other sites

Just went through a RBT on Friday night... copper didn't even notice the fact I had some brighter lights on the car than "legally" allowed.

As with what Mad34 said, they really only car if its too low or too loud... besides, how many new cars do I see with much brighter lights (Mercs and Beamers).

For those who want them, go back to the place where the car was imported... offer them a $100 to call you the next time a "fresh" car arrives so you can do a swap over before the lights get ripped out of that one for compliance :P Be WAY cheaper than buying from Nissan (think about it, they were yours in the first place)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1526463
Share on other sites

if i worried about what is legal or not when modifying my skyline i might as well have bought a commo dumped it put rims on it and be done with it.  Half the cops out there have no idea anyway  they just know if it is too low or too loud. 

on  the brighter side of things though i have been through a few brethos lately and no cops have said anything about the lights.

Alot of us try to obey the law and have roadworthy cars..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83940-r34-headlights/#findComment-1526482
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...