Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

pretty ignorant, if its 98RON, then it should be as good as the Mobil and BP stuff. I have noticed no differance in knock levels between Mobil or BP, but I tend to get less kms out of BP Ultimate

Chances are its probably comes out of the same refinery as either BP or Mobil

the SAFF on OG Road sells 100RON Racing Fuel

Im going to give it a try next time I go past a SAFF, the one I saw selling it was down near Holdens at Elizabeth

I think they take discount vouchers too.....

if your going to use the STAFF 98 ron fuel that im sure it should be ok if you got it tuned to take 98 ron fuel no matter what it comes from ie Staff/bp/mobil. But what is the point in using 100 ron fuel if you only use it once in a blue moon?

Yeah, the SAFF 98 should be no differant to the BP/Mobil fuel

100 Octane is good for track days etc where that bit of extra octane can be the differance in going home happy, or towing your car home because it had been detonating with the extra heat your car experiences at the track. It was pretty expensive though, at about $1.65 a litre I think (that was 8 months ago too)

I have used it once, and it was quite good

I think they are calling the SAFF stuff 'Boost 98' or seomthing like that

Interesting to hear people say "if it's 98 it should be just as good as the others"

Ask some questions of some people who have used optimax (not available in SA) and listen to the responses. Plenty will never use it again.

Also, I wouldn't buy fuel from a servo that didn't sell a lot of it. This high octane unleaded goes off, so if they aren't selling a lot and getting topped up frequently you might get a stale batch.

The moral of the story - always buy fuel from a busy servo.

A recent write up in a magazine found all 98ron fuels were 98, but the age of the fuel will make a difference. I think this is the big benefit with BP as they use fewer aromatics to produce 98ron, and hence it is less susceptible to the age problem.

Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

Edited by Busky2k

Yeah good mate. Yourself?

Oh yeah when I was surfing the SAFF website, seems this 98ROn stuff is 10% ethanol. Good for emmissions and the environment but could have unpredictable results in modified boosted cars like ours.

Edited by Busky2k
Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

I am always looking for a positive, so another way of putting it is that the acid eats away at the combustion chamber (making it larger) and hence decompresses it allowing me to run more boost (and hence get more power without detonation). How much sulphur fuel will I need to get my RB25 up to an RB26?

The glass is always half full.

Thats good to hear, im going well.

In regards to the SAFF fuel, Im doubt their is many sa import owners with "hard" tuned cars though (correct me if im wrong).

There are always those who still haven't had a retune since Mik from Tilbrooks touched their cars (admitedly most of them dont run anymore)

Edited by 4door_Sleeper

Sorry "hard tuned" (before I edited it) meant cars with programmable ECUs that tuned to make more power than the stockie ECU. Ie leaner AFRs, more ign advance. Thus they are more succeptable to detonation from a shitty fuel. (being 'harder tuned' than factory if you get what i mean).

4door, your a crack up mate. :P In the real world, that means the clearances between your piston and bore open up due to wear. I think the rings suffered too IIRC.

Edited by Busky2k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...