Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I want to get my Stag down into the 13's or just a 14 flat would do probably. I have a mate who has a Series 5 RX7 Non Turbo with mild porting and some extractors. Now it pulls a very low 14. And I'm sick of him beating me. What do I have to do or get (without spending big bucks) to get my Stag into the 13s? She is currently stock as a rock series 1.

Cheers,

CSV ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84618-getting-the-stag-into-the-13s/
Share on other sites

According to the 1/4 Mile calculator you will need 370 bhp (280 kw or 215 4wkw) to do a 12.9. That's simple;

SAFC or DFA $70

IEBC $70

SITC (if you can find one) $210

Ball Bearing hi flow of the standard turbo $1800

Split dump $500

3.25" exhaust with hi flow cat $500

Adj exhaust camshaft pulley (for average power, not max power) $170

Standard injectors (maybe with an adj FPR & slightly higher fuel pressure) $180

GTR fuel pump (standard wiring OK) $150

R32GTR intercooler (or equivalent). $400 + $450 for pipework

Auto transcooler $150

Auto valve body upgrade $300

Any decent tyres will do (it's a 4wd auto after all)

Careful tuning $200

Total around $5K

Hang on !!!!! That sounds almost like our Stagea.

:P Cheers :blink:

Edited by Sydneykid
Thanks soo much sk. How much would all that set me back? :rolleyes:

I stuck my guess at the prices in the previous post above. That's doing the fitting labour your self and building the DFA and IEBC.

:unsure: cheers :huh:

thanks sk! :rolleyes:

Just a few more questions. Eventually (around 5 or less yrs) I want to try and have my Stag running 11's in full street form. Now, what sought of gear and what sought of money am I up for to achieve this?

Edited by CSV Imports
thanks sk! :rolleyes:

Just a few more questions. Eventually (around 5 or less yrs) I want to try and have my Stag running 11's in full street form. Now, what sought of gear and what sought of money am I up for to achieve this?

There is big difference between 11.9 and 11.0, so let's try the middle

11.5 needs ~600 bhp (360 4wkw)

That's about $40K worth, including gearbox and drive line upgrades because I reckon it's gunna break the Stagea stuff with 600 bhp and 1800 kgs to pull. Almost everything from the fan to the rear diff will need to be upgraded.

:unsure: cheers :huh:

Ok, so what sought of turbo should I be using?

That's an excessively simplistic question, the answer is, it depends on what engine configuration. Do you upgrade the RB25, or swap in an RB26, or go for an RB30? Twin turbos or single? Manual or auto? There are many ways to get a Stagea into the 11's, just pick one.

:rolleyes: cheers :unsure:

One big help in 1/4 times will be a manual as well to give a good launch :)

But to keep the auto (more cost effective) sk has noted the most needed upgrades, if you could get a torque convertor to up the revs though would help a bit as well, but then forget about city driving :)

Yeah, I will be changing to a Manual gearbox in the near future, all I need to do is find out roughly how much it will cost and where I can get it done. Would the manual gearbox greatly improve the Stagea's 0-100km times and 400m times even if the car apart from the gearbox were standard? :(

sk - (or anyone else who knows the answer) I can get these parts quite easily (mates car) -

R34 GTT Side IC

R34 GTT turbo and a

GTR fuel pump.

I will also be purchasing a -

3.25" exhaust with hi flow cat

Auto transcooler

Auto valve body upgrade

SAFC or DFA

IEBC

What sought of power and 400m times will I get with these?

on the same topic, whats a stagea weighing 1800kg and 600hp at the rear wheels capable of with suitable gearbox etc? :D

thats manual, 5 speed, and rb26 with 2.7L jun stroker kit, and 4.3 diff gears :P

BTW dude, are you planning on any exterior mods?

sk  - (or anyone else who knows the answer) I can get these parts quite easily (mates car) -

1. R34 GTT Side IC

2. R34 GTT turbo and a

3. GTR fuel pump.

I will alse be purchasing a -

4. 3.25" exhaust with hi flow cat

5. Auto transcooler

6. Auto valve body upgrade

7. SAFC or DFA

8. IEBC

What sought of power and 400m times will I get with these?

Suggestion follow;

1. Around 200 4wkw seems to be the max from them

2. Around 190 rwkw (ie; not much more than the non neo RB25DET turbo)

3. Around 265 rwkw at 12 volts. bit over 300 rwkw at 13.8 volts

4. Around 400 awkw if it is a good one

5. No difference to power, but essential for durability

6. Slight improvement in 1/4 times

7. Should do 200 awkw easily

8. Good for response and average power.

The weakest link is 190 4wkw. so that would be around mid 13's.

;) cheers :D

on the same topic, whats a stagea weighing 1800kg and 600hp at the rear wheels capable of with suitable gearbox etc? ;)

thats manual, 5 speed, and rb26 with 2.7L jun stroker kit, and 4.3 diff gears :D

Should just sneak into the 10's. :) cheers ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...