Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those that have R32 GTRs what is the maintainence like on them? I would really like to get one, but the age of them worries me.

I am guessing that engine wise the biggest problem is likley to be the turbos... But a few thoughts from those that currently have one would be really helpfull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/
Share on other sites

For those that have R32 GTRs what is the maintainence like on them?  I would really like to get one, but the age of them worries me. 

I am guessing that engine wise the biggest problem is likley to be the turbos...  But a few thoughts from those that currently have one would be really helpfull.

I dont have one (gtst 33) but from what i have read on here is that only really have to look out for is the oil pump shitting its self and you spinn a big end

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1532080
Share on other sites

I've had mine since September last year.... the previous owner had the engine rebuilt with forgies(gotta get it rebuilt and done properly myself anyway), turbos hi-flowed, replaced the oil pump, and added a baffle oil sump....so..... since I've had it I've had to replace to the coil packs and get my alternator reconditioned.

Apart from the coil packs and alternator she's been sweet...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1532439
Share on other sites

it's almost impossible to answer that because it depends so much on the condition of the car. get a bad one and it will make you pay until you squeal, get a good one and it will cost you normal servicing only. but it's just like buying a porsche - maintaining something that will give you this much performance is never going to be cheap eg yes you can use $15 oil from Woolies but most of us use full synth $60 or so every 5000km. it adds up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1535742
Share on other sites

i'm just waiting for nick to pipe up. :)

he told me not to buy a gtr. did anyway. i resent the PITA that they can be but the experiences you'll have in it FAR FAR FAR outweigh any $$$ outlay you might experience.

having said that, i got lucky with mine. its an 89 and i've had very few problems with it. anything that has reared its ugly head has been quite minor.

keep in mind that even the best 32's will most likely need some sort of work before too long. its the kind of car you really need to be dedicated to, otherwise you'll just end up with a car that is falling to pieces! preventative maintainance is the key to these cars.

if i could go back before i bought my gtr with the knowledge of the things that i have gleaned during my ownership, i'd spend more on the initial purchase and buy one that was in a higher state of tune. that is all. other than that, its been a great purchase!

so yeah, if the pockets allow, nab yourself one and enjoy what is, really REALLY, one of the best cars in the world and one of the most rewarding drives you'll experience.

oh. and my car's for sale too if you want it!!! ;) going o/s end of the year, and downgrading until my return. then i'll park another R in my driveway.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=84594

d

Edited by djhatton
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1548744
Share on other sites

ive only really had diff troubles with mine. The day after it got licenced the diff dropped a bearing and grinded and grinded. Replaced it with a 2nd hand unit which looked good and the lsd is worn in it so again i need to either fix it or look for an aftermarket unit.

Umm what else.. my air con has decided to only point to the window, motor wont move the vents.

Brakes are very spongy, replaced master cylinder and it didnt fix it so its either worn/old brake lines or the brake booster.

i think thats it :|

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1549539
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

oil's (motor, gearbox, diff' (s), auto trans) air filter, fluids (brake, coolant, clutch master) sparkies, coils (not that you can do anything except glue them dont ask) wheel bearings all of this you can do your self

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1570363
Share on other sites

Hey djhatton it's Pat here from Duratone :)...

Yeh I pretty much have the same questions but replace GT-R with GTS-T....can't afford too much in maintenance.

haha hi mate

so you're in the market for a gtst. good choice.

gtst's are much simpler beasts (i used to own one) and you shouldn't have too many problems really. just the usual sh1t. of course, its all relative and the driving experience of a gtst is hugely different to an r.

no doubt you'll find every problem you're likely to come across EVER posted among these very forum pages so have a snoop around. search is your friend. i was a member on here for like 8 months before i posted. i spent that time reading and reading and reading the backlog that exists. lots of info here.

i'm not surprised you can't afford the maintainance of a gtr on what fay pays! teehee....

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84633-r32-gtr-issues/#findComment-1571900
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...