Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thing I used to do for comp cars was have the second battery isolate with the key off. that way you could run the stereo into the ground and still start the car.

if you go this route make both batteries the same size.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84748-my-system/page/2/#findComment-1560613
Share on other sites

Hey

Chris Rogers i may be going down that path later on, next year sometime :) thanks for that advice i will keep it in mind

I will probably go for the optima yellow top D34 and im unsure on the 'cap' issue as there are mixed opinions on this thread...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84748-my-system/page/2/#findComment-1561279
Share on other sites

get the battery first...

a cap is like a big power storage tank.

when a big bass note hits and it uses lots of power, the cap is there to make sure there is no misses, ie make sure there is power ready for the next bass note so you dont get a loud bass note, then the next one is soft.

you need the battery to actually fill the cap up with power, if you dont have a battery big enough to do that then the cap will just drain more power from the battery and your system wont work well at all...plus you'll get dimming lights etc etc

get the battery...

i have seen 100s of very high power systems running a D34 with no cap the lights might dim a bit, but the system wont miss a beat

dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84748-my-system/page/2/#findComment-1561343
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...