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melbmaniac
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Hey everyone,

well im soon to be the owner of a 1994 Skyline R33 GTS and i was wondering if i needed to change the stock battery that comes with this car.

The system:

1 x Pioneer DEH-P8650MP (head unit)

1 x Alpine SWX-1242D Type X 12 (sub)

1 x Kicker KX350.4 350w 4 ch (speaker amp)

2 x Focal K2 Power 165 KP 6.5" (front splits and rear)

1 x Alpine MRD-M605 600W Mono Amp (sub amp)

Do i need a new battery from the stock one? or will the stock battery do just fine and run this system with the car off for around 2+ hours and a bit with the car off?

If i need a new battery, what would you suggest?

Thanks for the help :)

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A bigger battery (move battery clamp over to the bigger setting) is a good idea if you get something over the stock ~280CCA level. Failing this, you can buy large capacitators from car audio places which can smooth out issues you may run into. If your headlights dim with a hard bass-hit, run the big capacitator.

If you run into problems with your stereo after that, then change the battery... you may not need to change it at all!

Oh... I think the battery clamps are the "smaller" size to accept "small" post batteries... you may need to change the clamps over to brass/gold "large" terminals (which usually have other inputs on the terminal for power wires such as amps)

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go down to the closest battery world, and they will give you the right advice on which battery you should run for best power for your amps,

i got told to use a camping battery, which last me 8 hrs of usage when the car is off, and my system puts out 145.1 DB in my r33 skyline

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fit the biggest odyssey battery you can fit. i currently have a yellow top in my '71 capri which has no computers etc in it just a sh*t load of stereo gear and it doesnt last 30 mins. the best i have found for large stereo are odyssey batteriers have one in my 32. top batteries. also upgrade the battery before worring about the cap.

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When purchasing a capacitor, talk to a knowledgeable salesperson about your choice in capacitor. Capacitors are measured in farads, and if you get the wrong rating capacitor, it can actually drain your battery more than running without a cap. Upgrading the battery may not be necessary to begin with, and i suggest waiting to see whether you have any issues with your current battery. Dimming of the lights with a bass beat is somewhat a sign, but even deep cycle batteries are known to still dim, largely due to the fact that the altenator has not been upgraded. Any further questions, dont hesitate to contact me.

Cheers,

Nasha

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go down to the closest battery world, and they will give you the right advice on which battery you should run for best power for your amps,

i got told to use a camping battery, which last me 8 hrs of usage when the car is off, and my system puts out 145.1 DB in my r33 skyline

this is the no nonsense way of doing it. have the current draw of the amplifiers handy ( or fuse ratings . ) if it has multiple fuses add them together. add that to the existing car battery and they will give you the correct one.

look at:

exide

Absorbed Power ( i sell these - great battery.)

optima

oddesey.

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no cap. thats what the battery is for. a cap is a bandage for a bigger problem.

Couldn't agree more.

Dunno about over there, but Optima yellow tops can be had for around $400 here in NZ and Orbital Blue tops are about $340.

By the list of your gear, I don't think you would need to go to these extremes, but they are good batteries. Maybe something like a Champion 500cca or similar would do the trick. From memory the model is something like 125L or 126 maybe?

Deep cycle batteries allow you to run the battery flat and recharge them many more times than a 'normal' battery.

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I have a 500CCA Optima...yellow top I think

cost me $300

and that is in addition to my 380CCA engine battery

EDIT: would you look at that, I just noticed I have been registered for exactly 1 year today B)

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