Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Topic: Mechanical Boost Gauge Install

Car: R32 GTST / RB20DET

Difficulty: 3/10

Hey Guys,

I know it's been covered in threads before, however I thought I'd do my own tutorial, with pics to help newbies (like myself)

I had to work all this out myself without pics, so it isn't too hard. I haven't put in mounting of the gauge, just where to run the hose, and where to make 'the crucial cut'

Cheers

Chris

NOTES: You can run the cable whereever you like. This is how I did it, think about what you are doing before you do it, perhaps you won't like the way I did it.

Tools / Parts needed

- Mechanical Boost Gauge - I have no idea about electronic, so don't bother asking :D When you work it out, make a tutorial like I have :(

- hose (it's cheap...I started with 3m to be sure, You should work out how much you need before starting)

- T Piece

- Screwdrivers

- Wire or something to help you get the hose through the firewall

Step 1

Remove the driver side kick panel (Image 1)

Step 2

Remove the floor trim, or cut a hole if you're lazy like me. (image 2)

Step 3

Under then engine, remove the foam plug that will expose an area to run the hose (images 3 and 4)

Step 4

Run the hose through the firewall. It isn't easy. Use some solid wire to push it through. Get inside the car to pull it through further.

Step 5

Cut the hose as shown in image 5. This picture already has the T peice in place (Image 5)

Step 6

Put the T peice in as pictured (image 6)

Step 7

Back inside the car, mount your boost gauge and run the hose to it. Connect it up. Start the car, check for leaks/acurate boost reading (dyno run) Many guages aren't accurate, that isn't a problem as long as you know what the reading is in reality. I was lucky, my gauge is very accurate.

Hope that helps out the newbies. I know it would have helped me heaps if it was around.

There are other locations to cut the hoses, but I read that is the best location as other hoses can cause engine damage somehow (no I don't know how)

post-15054-1125011627.jpg

post-15054-1125011698.jpg

post-15054-1125011774.jpg

post-15054-1125011907.jpg

post-15054-1125012041.jpg

post-15054-1125012106.jpg

Excellent tutorial mate. Any chance of details of how to hook up the electrics?

Electrics? If you mean an electronic boost gauge - No. I have no idea how they even work.

If you mean to get a light to the mech boost gauge... If I ever have time I will add it in. It took me a month to get round to this.

But all I did was run the earth line on the gauge to a bolt that was on metal. And I ran the power line and just cut into the light wire for the cig lighter.

Cheers

Chris

I might be able to help with electronic boost guages. Ive recently installed an electronic Pivot boost guage in my r32. Dont have any photos though.

Basically, its all the same, Except the air line that plugs into the back of the guage plugs into a pressure transducer instead (looks like a little black box). Try to place the transducer as close to the source as possible (keep the air line short) to improve response, under the dash is good as you dont want it under the bonnet (too hot) and it cant get wet.

The transducer needs +12V power, negative and has a signal wire going from it to the actual guage. The guage itself will need +12V power from the ignition, +12V from the lights and a negative (or earth).

The easiest place to get all three of these is the cigarette lighter.

Great tutorial mate ;)

With the boost gauges i've installed i've found it easier to push the line though the firewall from inside the cabin. (step 4)

Get a coat hanger cut it and straighten it out. Slide the hose over the coat hanger (so now it's solid), and push it through the hole from inside the cabin.

Keep up the good work :D

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
    • Good old Orange Park hey... 😛   f**k I miss that race track
    • lo, it was a death trap. Good times. Got any Fatz Drift Day DVDs still available?
    • Yes, overthinking. Many PS reserviors are completely opaque. Our Skyline ones, for example. Have to remove lid, peak inside, swirl the dipstick, try to remember how to read it, etc etc. Normal. Radiator overflows are often sufficiently opaque and scunged up that you can't see the true level inside anyway, and have to open and have a peak. Besides which, I replaced the (massively expensive, even back then) plastic overflow in my Alfa GTV, back in the '90s with a stainless one that I had a good fabricator make up to be dimensionally same-same, that looks remarkably similar to the Bogan's Moroso one above, and I never suffered any particular paranoia that I didn't know how much coolant was in it.
    • Looks great, but I'm always concerned that it makes it difficult to see what level the fluids are at. Am I overthinking this?
×
×
  • Create New...