Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I'm moving from delaide to melbourne within a month or 2, and so I pretty much have the option of registering in either melbourne or adelaide.

I know in adelaide, the make you take off all mods except wheels, and was wondering if they did the same in Victoria, or if it was a little more leniant.

Anyway, any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85276-regist-in-melbourne/
Share on other sites

To get it rego'd in melb you'll have to have a RWC which you can get at most mechanics. Then you'll have to bring it into Vic Roads and they'll check everything. So if you have a car that's too loud and all sorts of electronic gear in the cabbin and illegal sh1t under the bonnet they wont pass you.

^^^^ yeah but how often do they walk out to the carpark and look the car over.. they are usually women behinf the counter that take your money for rego and if u are transfering rego they will look at briefly and stamp the road worthy ... aswell as collection thier gay 4% stamp duty lol

other then that they never look at your car at vicroads as far as i know

they didnt look at mine

Yeah, I was more concerned with the initial rego after compliancing.

In adelaide, they make you take off EVERYTHING. The car has aftermarket shocks, an airpod, a turbo timer, and a few other little (but entirely legal) bits.

I was hoping that vic roads may be less..... Crap.

If they are, I'll get my car complied there, otherwise, I'll get it done in adelaide.

Have a look here:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrne5n...A256FD300241BFF

Inspection of the vehicle might be required, but you need to ring Vicroads to find out. If it is currently registered and you are the owner it also appears you won't need a RWC or pay stamp duty....well that's my interpretation, but best ring them to find out

When i got my import 4x4 regoed recently there were all woman working and all they checked was the engine and chassis numbers matched. They didnt care about anything else.

I reality is vicroads dont really care, just like when you go to clear a canary, they will never check ur car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...