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:thumbsup: Jamex deliverd me the wrong front shockers on Monday. They deliverd shocksrs for R33 GTST part no "F4-B46-1873-HO" which is wrong since my car is R33 GTS4, I checked with Bilstein Australia, a local tech and few other memeber in this forum which confirmed this.

Garry, could you kindly tell me the procedure to return both front shockers to jamex and get the correct ones, according to Bilstein Australia part num should be "F4-B46-2107-HO" (As you know same thing which will fit into R33 GTR).

PM sent, kindly reply asap.

Cheers :O

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:thumbsup: Jamex deliverd me the wrong front shockers on Monday. They deliverd shocksrs for R33 GTST part no "F4-B46-1873-HO" which is wrong since my car is R33 GTS4, I checked with Bilstein Australia, a local tech and few other memeber in this forum which confirmed this.

Garry, could you kindly tell me the procedure to return both front shockers to jamex and get the correct ones, according to Bilstein Australia part num should be "F4-B46-2107-HO" (As you know same thing which will fit into R33 GTR).

PM sent, kindly reply asap.

Cheers :O

No they didn't, PM sent.

Chin, is it really necessary today to;

Send me 1 SMS message ?

Send me 2 PM's ?

Send me 1 Email ?

and post it in this thread?

:( cheers :laugh:

Sorry Gary, your email and PM is directed to my MS outlook which sometimes act crazy,(if it fails to send a message it will resend it after while) ill try to solve it. Just wanted to post a picture thats why I posted here. ;)

Infact when Bilsetein Aus told me front shockers i got is for 2WD not for 4WD and height is wrong, I got panic :no:

Cheers :)

No they didn't, PM sent.

Chin, is it really necessary today to;

Send me 1 SMS message ?

Send me 2 PM's ?

Send me 1 Email ?

and post it in this thread?

:rant: cheers :yes:

I just re read through the entire 12 pages of this thread, and still couldnt find a post explaining the height that relates to each groove....I know everyones saying that the shocks come in the 350/340mm position, but wouldn't it be a hell of a lot easier if we knew the height each groove acheived?

Both my front and rear shocks have the circlip in the groove 3rd from the bottom. HKS-R33 has told me his are installed at 340/330, and that his circlips are in the following positions:

Rear: Second from the bottom (1 below where mine are now)

Front: Third from the bottom (same as mine)

He tells me he had to have the height re adjusted after getting it wrong the first time, so you'd assume he got it right the second time...and the photo of his car above do seem to sit lower than most, and very even...

Could we please hear the height acheived by each groove (for both front and rear) and which grooves the circlips SHOULD be in out of the box for 350/340? I think it would clear it up for everyone very simply.

Also this post

Has anyone lowered it to the ~340/~330 height with 1 rear camber kit?

Dezz,

I found this on forum,

"Hi Mike, the springs are 25mm lower than the standard 375mm, so that's 350 mm, then there are 3 circlip grooves 8mm apart. Hence 350 mm - 24mm = 326 mm."

But still I cant figur out how to make my setting 355/345 yet :laugh:

Cheers

Dezz,

I found this on forum,

"Hi Mike, the springs are 25mm lower than the standard 375mm, so that's 350 mm, then there are 3 circlip grooves 8mm apart. Hence 350 mm - 24mm = 326 mm."

But still I cant figur out how to make my setting 355/345 yet :laugh:

Cheers

Yeah I saw that post. I'm just after a straight forward answer as to what height each groove (on both front and rear shocks as it seems they are different) achieves.

I want to know what GROOVES the 350/340 standard setting are supposed to be in, and how to achieve 340/330 etc

Yeah I saw that post. I'm just after a straight forward answer as to what height each groove (on both front and rear shocks as it seems they are different) achieves.

I want to know what GROOVES the 350/340 standard setting are supposed to be in, and how to achieve 340/330 etc

This is in one of Gary's posts on page 4.

Note that standard height is 2 circlip grooves up from the standard circlip groove, ~350 mm is the standard circlip groove and 330 mm is 2/3 circlip grooves down from the standard groove. You can pick the standard groove as it has a yellow stripe accros it. Plus the circlip should be in that groove when you get the shocks.

The 'standard' groove (350/340) has the yellow stripe as it has been painted with the clip still there.

This is in one of Gary's posts on page 4.

Note that standard height is 2 circlip grooves up from the standard circlip groove, ~350 mm is the standard circlip groove and 330 mm is 2/3 circlip grooves down from the standard groove. You can pick the standard groove as it has a yellow stripe accros it. Plus the circlip should be in that groove when you get the shocks.

The 'standard' groove (350/340) has the yellow stripe as it has been painted with the clip still there.

So this means,

Front Shock

Groove 1----( mm?)

Groove 2----( mm?)

Groove 3---- Clip (350mm, this is the standerd one with yellow stripe)

Groove 4----( mm?)

Groove 5----(330mm)

Groove 6-----( mm?)

Rear Shock

Groove 1-----( mm?)

Groove 2-----( mm?)

Groove 3---- Clip (340mm, this is the standerd one with yellow stripe)

Groove 4-----( mm?)

Groove 5-----( mm?)

Groove 6-----( mm?)

Now how can I acheive 355/345?

post-33178-1170747143.jpg

Skykc,

I had the same situation, everyone keep saying to use R33 gtr front shocks for my gts4 as wel.Since I saw your post I download the full catalouge from Bilstein which clearly shows (http://www2.bilstein.de/downloads/Bilstein_Programm_05-GB.pdf) part number F4-B46-1873-HO is for r33 2WD, they didnt have any listing for r33 gts4 though.

I will be buying the whole package from sydneykid when whiteline springs are available for my gts4.Need to straighten up this confusin though.

*looks like there is no diffrent between r33 gtst and r33 gts4 then? I thought r33 gts4 front shocks are shoter than r33 gtst? anyone can clear this out?

So this means,

Front Shock

Groove 1----( mm?)

Groove 2----( mm?)

Groove 3---- Clip (350mm, this is the standerd one with yellow stripe)

Groove 4----( mm?)

Groove 5----(330mm)

Groove 6-----( mm?)

Rear Shock

Groove 1-----( mm?)

Groove 2-----( mm?)

Groove 3---- Clip (340mm, this is the standerd one with yellow stripe)

Groove 4-----( mm?)

Groove 5-----( mm?)

Groove 6-----( mm?)

Now how can I acheive 355/345?

That looks right to me, as far as I can figure out. I haven't installed mine yet.

I would think that to get the closest to 355/345 you'd be using groove 2 or 3. Groove 2 looks like it will give something like 360/350 and groove 3 the 350/340. Just remember the 350/340 settings are not set in concrete, this could vary slightly from car to car but should be very close to it. Clip grooves are 8mm apart but that doesn't mean the car height will be altered by exactly 8mm (anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong).

I will be trying groove 3 and see how that goes. It seems as though this is the settings most people are using so it should be fine.

Edited by Fry_33
Skykc,

I had the same situation, everyone keep saying to use R33 gtr front shocks for my gts4 as wel.Since I saw your post I download the full catalouge from Bilstein which clearly shows (http://www2.bilstein.de/downloads/Bilstein_Programm_05-GB.pdf) part number F4-B46-1873-HO is for r33 2WD, they didnt have any listing for r33 gts4 though.

I will be buying the whole package from sydneykid when whiteline springs are available for my gts4.Need to straighten up this confusin though.

*looks like there is no diffrent between r33 gtst and r33 gts4 then? I thought r33 gts4 front shocks are shoter than r33 gtst? anyone can clear this out?

Hi Mike

Gary said F4-B46-1873-HOis the correct shock for r33 gts4, if that the case there are no different between R33 gtst and gts4 front shocks.local tech in Blacktown syas this one is wrong for my car, Im really confused actually, but Gary will clear this up im sure. still waiting on some more parts from him, unitl then cant install it.

Cheers

I just re read through the entire 12 pages of this thread, and still couldnt find a post explaining the height that relates to each groove....I know everyones saying that the shocks come in the 350/340mm position, but wouldn't it be a hell of a lot easier if we knew the height each groove acheived?

Both my front and rear shocks have the circlip in the groove 3rd from the bottom. HKS-R33 has told me his are installed at 340/330, and that his circlips are in the following positions:

Rear: Second from the bottom (1 below where mine are now)

Front: Third from the bottom (same as mine)

He tells me he had to have the height re adjusted after getting it wrong the first time, so you'd assume he got it right the second time...and the photo of his car above do seem to sit lower than most, and very even...

Could we please hear the height acheived by each groove (for both front and rear) and which grooves the circlips SHOULD be in out of the box for 350/340? I think it would clear it up for everyone very simply.

Also this post

Has anyone lowered it to the ~340/~330 height with 1 rear camber kit?

All the info is in this thread.

The Bilsteins come with the circlips in the recommended height groove (eg; 355/345).

The grooves are 8 mm apart

The wheel to shock travel is 1 to 1, so 8 mm at the shock = 8 mm at the wheel

Hence if you want 355 mm front, then don't move the circlips

If you want 347 mm then go down 1 groove (8mm)

Always remember every car is different.

You will get excessive rear camber at 330 mm with 1 rear camber kit. You will need 2 rear camber kits if you want to go that low. Which isn't recommended, as it results in noticeably decreased ride comfort and poorer handling. So if you go that low, you are doing it for looks only.

:P Cheers :D

we had to use the tops off the old dust covers to fill a gap on the struts. anyone else had this issue?

other than that - i gave it a good solid run through some nice roads and the comfort vs. handling factor is amazing.

definately some solid engineering behind the re-valving and setup.

just waiting on the front camber bits and hopefully i can get the rest put in and re-aligned.

cheers gary!!

Hi Guys,

Just need to know where I can get these installed in NSW? and how much normaly cost?

i)Bilstein front and rear shocks + whiteline springs +standerd strut tops + Bump and dust covers

ii)Whiteline Front and rear camber kits and front caster kit

iii)Wheel alingment

I got a quate from East Coast Suspensions as followes, is that the normal price for installation?

*To fit your springs & shocks , plus front camber & caster kit would cost $450.00.

*To fit the rear camber kit to the upper outer pivot points (ie. in the

upright would cost an additional $135.00.

*For Front & rear wheel alignment ( full adjust ) is $165.00.

Where did you guiys got these installed and for how much?

Cheers

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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