Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 300
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

second that

Fronts are $588... Turns out i dont need mine(already had some in there) So if anyone needs BRAND NEW FRONT STAGEA BILSTEINS in vic, i will deliver them too you.

Cheers

Ryan

Fronts are $588... Turns out i dont need mine(already had some in there) So if anyone needs BRAND NEW FRONT STAGEA BILSTEINS in vic, i will deliver them too you.

Cheers

Ryan

I was just wondering, the old price used to be $486/pair with the SAU discount... is there no SAU discount anymore (ie. group buy finished?)

As far as the PM I got from Matt, all the other prices are still the same. Only the prices for the shocks have changed - I think he mentioned that they're now the same rates as R32 GTR, as they ride better.

  • 2 months later...
Bump for SK or Matt.

Please update us on pricing, for the benefit of all!

Thanks

I'd also like to know if this group buy is still available and is pricing on all the parts the same as the original post?

The original Bilstein shock that was used in the front of the Stagea kits was discontinued not long after I started the Group Buy. So we have been using the Bilstein R32GTR front shock as a base, which actually gives a slightly better result. The downside is they cost $50 more each. I had Bilstein absorb the price increase ($100) for as long as possible to keep the Group Buy prices the same. But all of the suppliers have had multiple price increases since the Group Buy was established over 2 years ago and I can't hold them any more. For the moment the only change is the extra $100 on the front shocks, but there will be an all over price increase of around 5% very shortly. So get in now if you want to avoid it.

A quick reminder, some time ago I did negotiate a price reduction of around $90 in the front camber kit, so the change in the total kit price over all this time is around $10.

For exact pricing on your specific needs, a PM is the best method.

Cheers

Gary

Gary,

When installing the whiteline rear springs - i had to go to the third highest circplip groove on the strut before the spring would even touch the top hat. Is this normal? ie I had to go to the second highest circlip groove to get a better height.

Adrian

Yes, quite normal, I run mine in the top circlip groove.

:( cheers :)

doesnt that mean the shock is too long for the spring?? back when i had my ute i had to get shorter shocks for my lowered springs to keep them held in place. i know having the shock that long wont damage anything, but its more a roadworthy issue. my mate got done by the transport office for havin springs that werent held in place properly.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Hi SK,

Payment sent. I tried to PM you but it was full.

Any chance of an ETA?

Cheers.

I cleared a bit of space today in the PM inbox after being away for the weekend, first weekend off in 6 months.

Cheers

Gary

I cleared a bit of space today in the PM inbox...

Hi Sk,

I wasn't too concerned about your mailbox being full. I'd think you'd have to have one of the highest contact ratios of any of the members...

But still no luck, your mailbox has been full since your post... :woot:

Just wanted to make sure you'd received my payment for the suspension (see below) and see if there's an ETA for delivery (I haven't heard anything yet)?

02/06/2008

ANZ INTERNET BANKING FUNDS TFER

TO JAMEX AUSTRALIA

$2,364.55

Thanks.

Tee Carter

hay sk

after pricing i have a series 2 2001 rsv 2wd

rear shocks and springs

rear stabliser bar

front caster kit

can i please get ur bank details too

delivery to the gold coast 4215

thanks myles 0432355971

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...