Jump to content
SAU Community

YAY New Cooler Is In


Recommended Posts

Finially got the cooler installed after it sat in my room for 2 weeks!!!

Thanks heapes to gerald for the work, was a bit of farkin around coz the original piping needed to go through 1 of the chassis rails, which is a no no so we had to modify it!

Havent had a chance to trash it as yet, getting dynoed tomorrow and everything checked then the trashing will begin!

Can feel the better throttle response at just 7psi boost, so much better response and acceleration.

Stainless Steel ceramic coated inside and out piping so it stays nice and cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8647-yay-new-cooler-is-in/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by INASNT

Can feel the better throttle response at just 7psi boost, so much better response and acceleration.

Hopefully its not just mainly a 'placebo' effect, would be good to see the before and after dyno results (you did get a before one, right? :P ).

Have you noticed your car naturally boosting slightly higher now?

well i just got back from race pace getting the s-afc retuned!

I got 183kw@wheels at 0.9 bar boost and 165kw@wheels at just 0.5 bar boost!!

I am farkin rapped, the cooler worked beautifully, previously i got 155kw@wheels at 0.8 bar with stock cooler.

I will post the dyno graph tonight!

Originally posted by INASNT

I got 183kw@wheels at 0.9 bar boost and 165kw@wheels at just 0.5 bar boost!!

Excellent! So that's around a 25rwkw increase at the same boost level from a cooler + SAFC! Awesome. It's clutch+turbo changing time I think if you plan to go any higher although for me ~185rwkw would be just right I think.

So it's just this plus a full exhaust and pod right? How are you controlling the boost? Bleed valve or EBC?

To compare, I've got a cat back 3.5" and a pod, stock boost + cooler and am getting 148rwkw. Looks like cooler + SAFC (if required) is next!

Originally posted by McCracken

Excellent!  So that's around a 25rwkw increase at the same boost level from a cooler + SAFC!  Awesome.  It's clutch+turbo changing time I think if you plan to go any higher although for me ~185rwkw would be just right I think.

So it's just this plus a full exhaust and pod right?  How are you controlling the boost?  Bleed valve or EBC?

To compare, I've got a cat back 3.5" and a pod, stock boost + cooler and am getting 148rwkw.  Looks like cooler + SAFC (if required) is next!

I got full exhaust and custom dump with rest of exhaust 2!

I am controlling boost with a shitty turbosmart 2 stage controller, they said it would get a bit more with a ebc since it holds the boost so much better in all weather conditions, the bleeds holding capabilities in different weather conditions change.

Originally posted by ed

OMG that's excellent. Congrats INASNT! Do you have a EBC? or a bleed valve? How much was piping?

piping is stainless steel 2.5 inch with ceramic coating inside and out and cost be $600 which is basically a straight fit.

And when i went to race pace there was this crazy farkin race boat in the garage which had a twin turbo 383 chev in it and was pulling 1150hp!!:eek:

Originally posted by MZNISMO

HOW MUCH DID U PAY FOR THE THONGS!!!!

WHERE CAN I GET A PAIR!!

FWOARRR THEY LOOK LIKE FULLY IMPORTED CUSTOM MADE THONGS!!!!

where u being living the last few years? u can get them for $2 at big w!! Wait a minute dont u buy all your clothes there, how could u miss the thongs!!:lol:

see here darling...

its all a matter of quality..

now u can go out and buy a huge big ass fullsik truck cooler. which will do shit all for u and be shitt quality.. or u can go out and buy a fantastic nicely sized hks cooler with proper rounded end tanks for beautiful flow..

just like the thongs!!

u can buy genuine fully sik imported thongs which will last u more than a week before breaking . compared to the 2 dollar ones u purchase at bigw

and i think u need to get ur facts right before ua ccuse me !!

i dont shop at bigw!! the prices are out of my league there..

get it right biatch its SAVERS!!!

thats the one!!!

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

ahaahhahaahhahaha

i need a holiday...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Its also worth mentioning that 30 years after it left the factory and god knows how many missed oil changes since, there is every possibility that one or more lifters are ticking because they are sticky/gummed up. To resolve that you need to pull the cams then pull each lifter, disassemble, clean, reassemble, soak in oil and re-install, and they should come up good as new.
    • What air filter are you running? Is it a panel filter in the stock air box, or a pod filter? Is the air filter the type that is oiled?   If you unplug the IACV, what rpm does the engine idle at?
    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
×
×
  • Create New...