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i used serenity and i can't recommend sound deadening enough.

for $100-200 spend you get an absolute audible difference.

if you spend an extra $100-200 on HU, sub, amp & splits you won't be able to pick any difference.

i sound deadened both doors and under the rear seats. the doors are the very least you should do.

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I used about 8kg of SD.

I won't install another system without sound deadening atleast in the front doors - I didn't want to weigh my car down too much I just wanted to get the most from my drivers - which it did.

Wolverine is right, it's the most noticable difference, I'll just add it's probably more useful when you're using quality equipment in the first place, so if you're using sony explod gear I wouldn't bother. I have focal kvp2 splits in the front doors and wanted to get the most out of them.

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I'm not sure if you have it over there, but Bostik Automotive Sound Deadening panels are a very good bang for buck alternative.

Iver here it is about $100nz for 10 x 500mmx500mm sheets. I'm pretty sure that the fusion stuff is this just rebranded.

I'd rate it as good as brown bread.Dynamat is better, but maybe 15-30% better for about 400% price increase.

As has been said, sound deadening your vehicle will make a VERY noticable difference in road noise and getting rid of rattles/resonance from your speakers.

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  • 6 months later...

Please excuse my thread grave-digging operation,

But does anyone have more info on where you put it? I was thinking of is sticking to the inside of the outer door skin, naturally, but how much you need to cover?

What about the inner chassis of the door, (the bit that you screw the door trim to) did you put anything behind or infront of it as well?

Thanks for any input...

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wow, you did everything then.

What diod you use to do the access holes?

Did you just cut out some MDF and silicone in?

Is that in an R32?

Looks different to mine - r33.

I take it you've used dynamat on the metal parts, or is it..

What's the TAC stuff? is that like brown bread?

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Dynamat extream on the metal bits. Holes are filled in with aluminium. Stereo shop doesnt want any come back calls from wood rotting and rust problems. Also less and thiner. So then thats silconed in.

Its also got some foam behind the speakers themselfs, just makes that area more dead. Plain chant or something, from fusion.

The tac-mat is a closed cell foam to stop any rattles from the door cards.

It all works very well.

But inregards to the comment $200 anywhere else wont make the same difference... Im not so sure about that. Get an eclipse head deck, then tell me you dont notice the difference. Really for a good system you need everything.

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  siddr20 said:
Im gonna get mine done as well in april sometime hopefully.. so will keep you posted.. for hertz 165s..

Is it worth gettin the full door deadend or half the door?? coz theres a huge difference in price!!!

Do it once and do it properly. I seriously noticed a fairly big difference with getting the acess holes filled. You probably dont need to go to the extent of foam on the door cards, but Im (trying) to win or place in some SQ comps. So every little bit counts.

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  • 1 month later...
  DOU33 said:
im looking at sound deading my boot lid rear quarter panels, doors etc etc and wahnt to know how to go about it as is very pricy to get someone to do it for you

pull all the panels off. clean with prepsol - apply dynamat. if youget stuck or want a box of it fire me a pm.

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I've been looking into sound deadening and looking at getting some dynamat xtreme.

Was thinking about putting an amp and sub in but thought I would try sound deadening first and see how it goes.

Found this tutorial on the CAA website..

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19

There's also these ones on the Dynamat website..

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_installat...ation_menu.html

If anyone knows of where to get some sound deadening stuff cheaply then please share the wealth :worship:

What are some of the options for deadening the area directly behind the speaker?

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