Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it will be my streeter for japan, so will do the daily duties when i stay over there, also used for skids on the street, and as a final backup if my missiles break.

will slowly mod it while it's over there, wondering if i should go the slammed stock kit on 15's look, or the big kit and 18's look. definitely no missiling this car, it will probably be my first import i actually take care of the looks with it haha

thinking something like this:

http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=600

http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=532

once it's done it's 2 years, ill bring it back as a personal import and street it here

it will be my streeter for japan, so will do the daily duties when i stay over there, also used for skids on the street, and as a final backup if my missiles break.

will slowly mod it while it's over there, wondering if i should go the slammed stock kit on 15's look, or the big kit and 18's look. definitely no missiling this car, it will probably be my first import i actually take care of the looks with it haha

thinking something like this:

http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=600

http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=532

once it's done it's 2 years, ill bring it back as a personal import and street it here

i vote tough offset and slammed

please dont ruin that laurel Stewy looks awesome, i rekn leave the kit as is and just get some better 15's........think of the cheap tyres

the main reason im thinking 15's is cos i wanna run like 185's for street, slows down the skids a little bit and makes it easier to train with people on the street

please dont ruin that laurel Stewy looks awesome, i rekn leave the kit as is and just get some better 15's........think of the cheap tyres

all tyres are cheap here. if you pay more than about 5000-6000yen new for anything for skids here your going to the wrong shop.

the last ss595's i got were about 5000yen each in 215/45/17

the main reason im thinking 15's is cos i wanna run like 185's for street, slows down the skids a little bit and makes it easier to train with people on the street

you mean you'll have no grip with the 15's so you'll have to slow down the skids because of grip issues ?

good to see your still going the 4 door route, looking the guds :D

it will be my streeter for japan, so will do the daily duties when i stay over there, also used for skids on the street, and as a final backup if my missiles break.

will slowly mod it while it's over there, wondering if i should go the slammed stock kit on 15's look, or the big kit and 18's look. definitely no missiling this car, it will probably be my first import i actually take care of the looks with it haha

thinking something like this:

http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=600

http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=532

nice , i vote stock bars , nice rims , ultra clean :/ oooorrr big kit big rims clear lights everywhere orr :D

look at this interior, f**k yeh!! haha, all it needs now is some VIP food trays and dildo gear knob.

72486_456466128743_733698743_5423642_1373816_n.jpg

nice , i bet you have roof lining too :) , don't forget drink holders :)

pics: better offset would make this car look tuff:

post-20231-1288610188_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1288610204_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1288610268_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1288610299_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...