Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mita realy does suck but if you wana become a machanic i belive it is on of the best places to get experience through i go to mita but just as user choise luckly im in my 4th yr just about done me time and dont have to put up with there shit no more got to say thow jeff bishop is one of the most noligable blokes you will ever come across there and if it wasent for him prob wouldent be were i am today

all in all the world would be f*****d without machanics and yes the pay is shit house atm but more and more people are leaving the trade and a shortage of machanics is starting to apear well good ones neway i say stick out your 4 yrs were every you can and take in as much as you can but i belive well in my case i learnt more at home mucking around blowing thing up (lol) then some times at work as long as you got a good idea of wat you are doing you can learn wat you need at work and on ya days at tafe to one day be on the big dollers

i can say i got into the trade case i love it (rear to hear i know) not for the money

cheers

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Good performace mechanics can and do pull over 1K a week and endup interveiwing the employer not the other way around as the demand is that high.

Unfortunately the oppotunity is not there to be able to become trained in that sort of field. The only way you can become good at peformance mechanics is by learning off of your own back. For example I've just begun chipping my own ecu's as a starting point.

  • 2 weeks later...

does age play a major role in apprenticeships? i am now 21 and i have being told the older you are the less people want to employ you as a apprentice (considering it takes 4 years to do?) uni seems like a dead ender for too.. *sigh*

go get a skilled job not like those trades WTF

i hate shite like that trades are highly skilled ( and underpaid)

we all spend four years just to get the basics

just cause we get dirty does not mean we arnt skilled

couldnt agree more mate, house's dont build themselves do they

does age play a major role in apprenticeships? i am now 21 and i have being told the older you are the less people want to employ you as a apprentice (considering it takes 4 years to do?) uni seems like a dead ender for too.. *sigh*

Depends on the trade to be honest, I'm a chef (pastry), and there are are different kinds of ages. It also depends on the employer too, because at a certain age I can't remember though, you get paid the minimum adult wage, which I think is more than both 1st & 2nd year wage. There is no harm in applying because you could get lucky, but most apprentices are young.

With the shortage of good performace mechanics we have so if you can get a start in a performace shop you wont look back.

I know of a shop in WA paying close to $40 an hour and that cant be bad.

Top racing has 2 Apprentices and could not do without them and had to work very hard to get more quality mechanics. I know many of WAs shops are trying to get more staff so the future looks good if you guys do go down this path.

Mature age apprentices start on 3rd year wages, there is one at my work, and I know that there is a few others getting around, if you show that you are keen then you have a good chance of getting an apprenticship.

Unfortunately the oppotunity is not there to be able to become trained in that sort of field. The only way you can become good at peformance mechanics is by learning off of your own back. For example I've just begun chipping my own ecu's as a starting point.

Exactly, that is somewhere I would like to be in the future, I'm not sure how exaclty I will get there though...

It's unfortunate because most peformance workshops wont take on apprentices or work experience in places such as Hyperdrive and X-speed which fair enough because they survive on a reputation which strives on good quality work. But then that leaves very little training to provide good peformance mechanics for the future hence why they are becoming harder to find these days because the training is simply just not provided.

I've tried so hard by ringing up and contacting various shops but I just simply don't know how I can prove myself. It's another case of not what you know but rather who you know. It's unfortunate but very true in the majority of all cases.

I think shops need to take apprentices on so they can train ppl their way.

Sadly your right tho it is a case of who you know in most cases but a good place to start is go to race meets and ask around to see if anyone wants crew members,I know of many ppl that have found their way by doing this inc myself in the early 1980s.I did my 4 years as a normal mechanic and then started helping out on Rally teams and by the mid 80s i was building cars for ppl and at the end of the 80s had my own shop, give it a try.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...