Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:P Help, my chassis rail on my gtr was damaged by a garage using a troley jack behind the left front wheel. The rail has been pushed in quite badly.

I went to a suspension engineering mob who think the best way to fix it is to cut / split the rail open and straighten it up! Sounds very extreme to me. Has anyone tried to fix bent rails and can recomend a repair place in Melbourne? I thought maybe to fabricate a U channel to fit over the area (on both sides) and provide extra streigth and avoid future damage when the car is placed on a hoist or jack.

The right rail has some damage also from the car being jacked / hoisted up in the past. The rails are made of very thin steel. They sure don't make cars like they used to. Can anyone help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87209-chassis-rail-damaged/
Share on other sites

:P Help, my chassis rail on my gtr was damaged by a garage using a troley jack behind the left front wheel. The rail has been pushed in quite badly.

Can't help you with someone to do it, but have a look at this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84890&hl=

Been there, done that. I got a panel shop in Mitcham to re-build the rail. Cost around $250 IIRC, and they only needed the car for a day.

I'll see if I can dig out the details.

siksII, bent / crushed chassis rails are a roadworthy item, at least in Vic.

Thanks for the info. The rail is not bad enough to look at replacing it, but good info thanks.

Can't help you with someone to do it, but have a look at this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84890&hl=

That's great. I was quoted $400 and the car off the road for 3 days! Let me know if you find the info.

Been there, done that. I got a panel shop in Mitcham to re-build the rail. Cost around $250 IIRC, and they only needed the car for a day.

I'll see if I can dig out the details.

siksII, bent / crushed chassis rails are a roadworthy item, at least in Vic.

Had to go for a drive up there this morning - seems they have moved somewhere, so can't get you the info. Sorry.

Thanks guys for your help.

After contacting a number of panel shops, I have booked my car into a chassis / suspension engineering place. I spoke to one panel beater who sends some of the cars they get, there to fix this type of problem. Also cheaper than panel beaters were quoting ($1000 plus!) Unreal!

Happens all the time on the race cars, we simply drill a hole (or 2) and use a slide hammer to pull it out.  Cut the rail and replace the piece, you have got to be kidding.

:) cheers :D

Not cutting the rail, no way. One panel beater sugested to cut the floor and push it out that way. These guys are crazy. Rail will be straightened up and a metal plate welded on both rails where a hoist or jack would normally be placed. Rail will be stronger and avoid any future damage.

why not replace the rail with a new one from nissan?

Rail is not that damaged to justify unpicking the spot welds and MIG welding a new section. It's been pushed in but is still structurely sound. It's more asthetic if anything but maybe a roadwoarthy issue if an inspector was picky.

I want it fixed but don't want it to look like the car has been in an accident or anything. I'm always wery when I look under a car and there's a thick layer of sound deadner over chassis components and the floorpan. You know something has hapened to the car. My car has never been involved in an accident except for minor panel damage to the front guards.

  • 15 years later...
On 14/09/2005 at 9:02 PM, my_gtr32 said:

Thanks guys for your help.

After contacting a number of panel shops, I have booked my car into a chassis / suspension engineering place. I spoke to one panel beater who sends some of the cars they get, there to fix this type of problem. Also cheaper than panel beaters were quoting ($1000 plus!) Unreal!

Hey mate i know this is a long shot from 2005, now its 2020 lol

 

I have the exact same problem with my chassis rail bend and need it fixed before i go in for a rwc, do u still have the contact details of this chassis/ engineering place ?

 

Hi Mate, yes I do. Kent and Sons.http://www.kents.net.au/

They may help. I had a U channel fabricated to fit over both rails where the jack point or hoist pad would sit. The rails are easily damaged by jacking  if you don’t be careful and distribute the load with a piece of timber or something. Good luck with it.

cheers

  • 1 month later...
On 20/12/2020 at 1:13 PM, my_gtr32 said:

Hi Mate, yes I do. Kent and Sons.http://www.kents.net.au/

They may help. I had a U channel fabricated to fit over both rails where the jack point or hoist pad would sit. The rails are easily damaged by jacking  if you don’t be careful and distribute the load with a piece of timber or something. Good luck with it.

cheers

You are a champion  my friend, been looking for some 1 to fix it, will call them and try get it sorted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...