Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heh. Maybe you should break out the steel wheels, or better yet, how about four GT-R space savers. That would be an interesting look on the track :) In fact its almost worth trying to borrow a couple of space savers just for a photo op.

Re: SSR forging technique (the general URL was posted earlier, this is the info specifically about the construction):

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/ssr/ssr_info.jsp

Apparently my SSR Integral wheels weigh 8kg for the front 17x8" and 8.2kg for the 17x9" on the rear.

There is a website something like www.wheelspecs.com or something that has weights and other specs for heaps of different wheels.

Ok I don't know the weights with tyres but this site has the wheel you are looking at.

http://www.wheelweights.net/

This wheel is about 9kg (ish) - could only find the weight of the 18x7.5 which is 22.3lbs... so I just reduced it a bit. This is a great looking wheel!!! And a great price!!!

The 15" S14 wheel is about 7.9kg... but obviosuly there is alot more rubber attached when you put tyres on.

If you take a look at the more expensive Jap stuff, eg. Gram Lights 57S in the same size (17x7.5) it is 7kg (ish). Also a cast wheel (unless you go for the PRO version) and costs about $500 or so each wheel. So you basically pay for the weight reduction. Maybe they are stronger but I don't think you sound like the person that is taking his skyline to the track...

Hope this helps

Cheers

Adrian

but I don't think you sound like the person that is taking his skyline to the track...

Hehe, that was the whole point of the exercise of trying to find lighter rims... as i am starting to do some sprint days, and want some lighter rims for the benefits they give to a track car...

if i was purely after looks, the weight wouldn't bother me

Hehe, that was the whole point of the exercise of trying to find lighter rims... as i am starting to do some sprint days, and want some lighter rims for the benefits they give to a track car...

if i was purely after looks, the weight wouldn't bother me

LOL sorry - must have missunderstod... If you got the money then go the jap rims :)

I did :):)

  • 2 years later...
Don't know whether this helps, but I just weighed a standard R32 gts-t rim + tyre I have here and its 18kg.

Wow, I'm a little surprised as I thought of that wheel as looking quite light. So are those wheel cast then? A wheel weight website somewhere said the 32 GT-R wheel is 16lb/7.2kg, but that's just the wheel. Anyone weighed the 32 GT-R wheel with a tyre mounted? (Obviously varies with tyre, but for a rough idea?)

I had some 17" ROH Adrenalines that weighed 19kg with a tyre, and I thought that was pretty porky, but maybe not that unusual? Current ones are 15kg with tyre, and I was casting about for something potentially lighter, hence wondering about 32 GT-R wheel/tyre weight.

wow, diggin up a 3 year old thread, nice :)

Wow, I'm a little surprised as I thought of that wheel as looking quite light. So are those wheel cast then? A wheel weight website somewhere said the 32 GT-R wheel is 16lb/7.2kg, but that's just the wheel. Anyone weighed the 32 GT-R wheel with a tyre mounted? (Obviously varies with tyre, but for a rough idea?)

I had some 17" ROH Adrenalines that weighed 19kg with a tyre, and I thought that was pretty porky, but maybe not that unusual? Current ones are 15kg with tyre, and I was casting about for something potentially lighter, hence wondering about 32 GT-R wheel/tyre weight.

what u have to understand is that a wheel may be small in diameter, and thus weighing less than say a 18" wheel, but the tyre to keep the same overall diametre of the wheel and tyre u need to run a higher profile on the smaller diametre wheel, this means the tyre weighs more.

the GTS-t wheel is cast yes, the GTR wheel is forged, weight wise there is not a whole lot of difference, the GTR wheels weighs a bit less, but remember the GTR wheel is 8" wide and the GTS-t is only 6.5" so its not really a fair comparison.

remember, weight is relative to the size and strength of the wheel, no point having a really light wheel if its weak as piss and too thin to fit a decent size tyre on it. 19kg isnt overly heavy, but id imagine the wheel was something like a 17x7ish? to give u an idea, R33 GTR wheels (forged)weigh around that, are very strong and rigid, are 9" wide, with near new 235/45 tyres on them. they weigh around 9kg on there own without tyres.

ROH's arent a particularly expensive wheel and use a pretty standard casting technique.

My 18x8.5 TE37's weigh in at 8kg...very light for an 18" rim in my opinion...I think the LMGT4 is 1 of few that is lighter than TE37's inch for inch...

I expect the 18x9.5 rears I'm getting to be 8.5-9kg, but I'll have to wait until they're here to weigh them

the GTS-t wheel is cast yes, the GTR wheel is forged, weight wise there is not a whole lot of difference, the GTR wheels weighs a bit less, but remember the GTR wheel is 8" wide and the GTS-t is only 6.5" so its not really a fair comparison.

...

ROH's arent a particularly expensive wheel and use a pretty standard casting technique.

So 32 GT-R wheel with tyre would be around 18kg or so anyway? Anyone weighed one?

(The ROH was an example of a fairly nasty wheel, that's why I was surprised the GTS-t wheel was nearly the same weight, as the ROH looks like it has lots of excess material, but the GTS-t wheel looks pretty clean.)

the casting technique is ultimately what determines the weight, the design does play a role, but not usually as large as the manufacturing technique.

the weight of a tyre and rim will vary by a few KG's depending on tyre size, tyre design, tread left etc etc so u really cant compare. plus the GTR wheel will usually run a wider tyre as well so theres extra weight.

There can be more variation in the weight of the same sized tyres of different construction than the weight of a one forged rim verssus another forged rim. A new tyre with 8 mm of tread weighs more than used tyre with 5 mm of tread, let alone a worn out tyre with 1 mm of tread. Take a look at what is written on the sidewall of a tyre, research how many steel and/or kevlar belts, shoulder and sidewall construction, plycord, bead filler and wires and the chafer. Saving 1 kg by spending $800 more on a wheel and then using a tyre that weighs 2 kgs more is not very cost effective and may do nothing for performance at the same time.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...