Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Rebuild Progress

IOWNU

By IOWNU,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Well recently I posted some info about my turbos dying, followed by the engine. Engine was opened up recently, and I took some pics on my Mob, exhaust valves are smashed, hence the 0 compression. Judging from the damage, the mechanic reckons its just the head that is gone, and the bottom MAY or MAY NOT be functional. He's getting the head reconditioned and may choose to "gamble" and put the head back onto the same bottom......for some reason that doesn't sound entirely correct to me. Anyways, this is for the tech gurus on SAU, judging from the pics, is it likely that the bottom end is gone? Or should the head just be replaced on its own. Prior to engine failure there was NO TAPPING bottom end sound, engine just seized, and refused to start.

Thanx in advance,

Ali.

PICS:

13-09-05_1306.jpg

13-09-05_1307.jpg

13-09-05_1308.jpg

13-09-05_1347.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87766-rb26-rebuild-progress/
Share on other sites
GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

If that happened to me, I would also tear down the whole engine and rebuild it. The main thing is that nothing else could fail if it is rebuilt properly and new parts installed. I'd go a fresh eng any day, I'd have to save up first though.

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Don't 'see how it goes' make a point of it that the whole motor needs to be rebuilt :D

haha that's what i meant, see how it goes with the mechanic.

I assumed from the start that I might need a full rebuild, but mechanic is a mate and is honeslty trying to save money........as much as I appreciate it, i think i'd rather not risk it.

Guest DIRTgarage

Guest DIRTgarage

Posted
Posted
haha that's what i meant, see how it goes with the mechanic.

I assumed from the start that I might need a full rebuild, but mechanic is a mate and is honeslty trying to save money........as much as I appreciate it, i think i'd rather not risk it.

he is not being a mate by allowing the engine to be put back together without a full rebuild....it will cost you more in the long run.

Mik Experienced

Mik

Posted
Posted
Absolutely DO NOT go with the "she'll be right" attitude

The heads off, get that bottom end out and have it rebuilt otherwise you are wasting your time and wasting your money.

Dont half do it

Pulling the head off with the engine in the car must have been fun...

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

at the very least get someone to do an analysis on your oil, they will be able to tell you if there are metal particles like bearings or exhaust valve parts floating around your engine.

this is a topic close to my heart atm :)

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

rebuild it no question

plus i find it easier now to drop the subframe engine gearbox the lot to do any work on the engine but it requires a two post hoist (but god does it make life easier)Once out its so easy to remove/work on everything

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It will be worth it.

What components are you going to use in the rebuild?

Hmmm was thinking standard, but now that the budget has already been blown, might as well blow it further.

The car already has n1 nismo turbos, steel wheeled, but not ball bearing.

Car also has aftermarket exhaust and air filters, but thats it.

Might upgrade the internals, see what the mechanic says tommorow, any suggestions?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...