Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys

Have bought an RB25DET to put in my Cefiro, which is currently an RB20.

Thought there would have been a thread on how to do this conversion, but could not find one!

I presume it will bolt straight in, but just wanted to know about best electrical method with standard R33 loom and ecu. Also digital speedo with mechanical dash.

Any advice appreciated

Regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87779-rb20-to-rb25-conversion/
Share on other sites

I had this link in my favourites from before the forum software change.. If anyone can get it to point to the right place again, (search doesn't like the title for some reason :) ) it shows a very good guide to the conversion.

*old link*

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53898

topic heading was : Rb25 into R32 skyline

Edited by heller44
  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys the old link isnt working i think. plus i have searched and thereis alot of info to waid through and i dont have time as the owner of the car wants it done yesterday.

okies to cut a long story short.

im currently working on an r32 that originally had a rb20.

there is now an rb25 sitting in the engine bay

(i did one a long time ago and cant remember how i did it or what i did and the info i had i can find)

so some questions -

as what im looking at doing atm is using the rb25 engine harness and just getting the pinouts for the 3 plugs that are near the ecu to plug into the car wiring harness.

swap the wires from the rb25 engine harness to the rb20 plugs so it will plug into the car harness with little fuss.

does anyone have the pinouts for the 3 plugs i need both the rb20 and rb25 diagrams showing the pinouts and wire colour with function??

any info would be greatly appreciated. plus once i have it sorted, ill post up all the info for future reference. B)

Edited by sim_rx3

The RB20 gearbox will bolt straight up onto the RB25DET. The box appears capable enough to handle the output of the 25.

My conversion - Stagea RB25DET into a R32 GTS4 - ended up pushing 180kW to all 4 wheels, and the box hasn't shown any reluctance to continue working.

I ran a Wolf 3D ECU into it, so can't help you with the pinouts.

ok ive got the diagram for the rb25det harness diagram - http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/rb25diagram.jpg

if someone has exactly the same but in the rb20det i would be most greatful.

thanks in advance

just a heads up you have to hook up the cat temp sensor when doing this conversion otherwise the 33 ecu goes into limp mode

(this is what happened to me when i put a 25 in to a slivia and used the factory ecu)

just a heads up you have to hook up the cat temp sensor when doing this conversion otherwise the 33 ecu goes into limp mode

(this is what happened to me when i put a 25 in to a slivia and used the factory ecu)

thanks heaps man!! B)

im still chasing the diagram if anyone has one.

Edited by sim_rx3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...