Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys

Have bought an RB25DET to put in my Cefiro, which is currently an RB20.

Thought there would have been a thread on how to do this conversion, but could not find one!

I presume it will bolt straight in, but just wanted to know about best electrical method with standard R33 loom and ecu. Also digital speedo with mechanical dash.

Any advice appreciated

Regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87779-rb20-to-rb25-conversion/
Share on other sites

I had this link in my favourites from before the forum software change.. If anyone can get it to point to the right place again, (search doesn't like the title for some reason :) ) it shows a very good guide to the conversion.

*old link*

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53898

topic heading was : Rb25 into R32 skyline

Edited by heller44
  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys the old link isnt working i think. plus i have searched and thereis alot of info to waid through and i dont have time as the owner of the car wants it done yesterday.

okies to cut a long story short.

im currently working on an r32 that originally had a rb20.

there is now an rb25 sitting in the engine bay

(i did one a long time ago and cant remember how i did it or what i did and the info i had i can find)

so some questions -

as what im looking at doing atm is using the rb25 engine harness and just getting the pinouts for the 3 plugs that are near the ecu to plug into the car wiring harness.

swap the wires from the rb25 engine harness to the rb20 plugs so it will plug into the car harness with little fuss.

does anyone have the pinouts for the 3 plugs i need both the rb20 and rb25 diagrams showing the pinouts and wire colour with function??

any info would be greatly appreciated. plus once i have it sorted, ill post up all the info for future reference. B)

Edited by sim_rx3

The RB20 gearbox will bolt straight up onto the RB25DET. The box appears capable enough to handle the output of the 25.

My conversion - Stagea RB25DET into a R32 GTS4 - ended up pushing 180kW to all 4 wheels, and the box hasn't shown any reluctance to continue working.

I ran a Wolf 3D ECU into it, so can't help you with the pinouts.

ok ive got the diagram for the rb25det harness diagram - http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/rb25diagram.jpg

if someone has exactly the same but in the rb20det i would be most greatful.

thanks in advance

just a heads up you have to hook up the cat temp sensor when doing this conversion otherwise the 33 ecu goes into limp mode

(this is what happened to me when i put a 25 in to a slivia and used the factory ecu)

just a heads up you have to hook up the cat temp sensor when doing this conversion otherwise the 33 ecu goes into limp mode

(this is what happened to me when i put a 25 in to a slivia and used the factory ecu)

thanks heaps man!! B)

im still chasing the diagram if anyone has one.

Edited by sim_rx3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...