Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Rob

you should able to meet your goal, however you might have to consider get a aftermarket equ-ength (spelling?) of manifold made up..coz the gas will flow much better then stock..

Originally posted by rob77

I have a td06-20g with a 16cm2 exhaust housing. It should be tuned in the next 4-5 weeks, currently sitting on the stock manifold and with a stock ecu. Makes 344hp @ 13psi, full boost by 4600rpm. I expect boost to come on quicker once the ecu is fitted, if it isnt much better I'll look into a tubular manifold. I'll let you know how I go, but I expect to make 360ish with the ecu and around 14psi.

Good to read about these buildups, like Steve's 3037, bbenny's 2530 and Rob77's TD06. Really gives some good reading, and shares alot of (expensive) knowledge.

There should be a few more project writeups soon, with Roy's new hairdryer, Akira's quest for a decent tune with rice, GTR STI's animal, my brother's and my own street car....and the list goes on.

I agree this section, forced induction performance, seems to be the best read and most information packed. The state sections tend to be filled with whore crap. Its good to see so many r33's been taken beyond the stock turbo, the more people who do it and then post their findings the more information we have and the easier it becomes for others to decide which way to go. Went for a blat this evening to get some petrol and milk and shit to keep the preggers wife happy and shit my car scares me sometimes... so much power and so little traction :D Although gtst-vspec has less traction than me, we went fishtailing down the road yesterday on the way to picking my car up from the panel beater after some truck driver wacked my car outside work. I am hanging out for my ecu now, then I can scare myself some more ;)

I had drive it tonight..

took off at 1st gear rev till 7000 hear the wastgate open shift to second heard it again shift...and it's keep throw me back to my seat , lag is there, but down shift will make it easy to drive..the boost so savage.....so hard...i would not take any elder in back seat, who might need a neck reconstruction after have a lift..

When the it's on boost and pass a big left turn, I need to keep the throttle steady..coz I can feel the car start to sideway....need to slow a bit, I have FM901 235 all around, and now I am thinking about some semi slick now..

what a great night..

i know of a car running a t67-25g (similar to tdo6-25g) on a rb24. hes not running a/m ecu yet and doesnt really have that much lag but it hits pretty hard. he spins his 255 semi slicks in the dry on boost in the first 3 gears,while only running 15psi. pretty scary considering hes getting a powerfc and boost up to 22-23psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...