Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Rob

you should able to meet your goal, however you might have to consider get a aftermarket equ-ength (spelling?) of manifold made up..coz the gas will flow much better then stock..

Originally posted by rob77

I have a td06-20g with a 16cm2 exhaust housing. It should be tuned in the next 4-5 weeks, currently sitting on the stock manifold and with a stock ecu. Makes 344hp @ 13psi, full boost by 4600rpm. I expect boost to come on quicker once the ecu is fitted, if it isnt much better I'll look into a tubular manifold. I'll let you know how I go, but I expect to make 360ish with the ecu and around 14psi.

Good to read about these buildups, like Steve's 3037, bbenny's 2530 and Rob77's TD06. Really gives some good reading, and shares alot of (expensive) knowledge.

There should be a few more project writeups soon, with Roy's new hairdryer, Akira's quest for a decent tune with rice, GTR STI's animal, my brother's and my own street car....and the list goes on.

I agree this section, forced induction performance, seems to be the best read and most information packed. The state sections tend to be filled with whore crap. Its good to see so many r33's been taken beyond the stock turbo, the more people who do it and then post their findings the more information we have and the easier it becomes for others to decide which way to go. Went for a blat this evening to get some petrol and milk and shit to keep the preggers wife happy and shit my car scares me sometimes... so much power and so little traction :D Although gtst-vspec has less traction than me, we went fishtailing down the road yesterday on the way to picking my car up from the panel beater after some truck driver wacked my car outside work. I am hanging out for my ecu now, then I can scare myself some more ;)

I had drive it tonight..

took off at 1st gear rev till 7000 hear the wastgate open shift to second heard it again shift...and it's keep throw me back to my seat , lag is there, but down shift will make it easy to drive..the boost so savage.....so hard...i would not take any elder in back seat, who might need a neck reconstruction after have a lift..

When the it's on boost and pass a big left turn, I need to keep the throttle steady..coz I can feel the car start to sideway....need to slow a bit, I have FM901 235 all around, and now I am thinking about some semi slick now..

what a great night..

i know of a car running a t67-25g (similar to tdo6-25g) on a rb24. hes not running a/m ecu yet and doesnt really have that much lag but it hits pretty hard. he spins his 255 semi slicks in the dry on boost in the first 3 gears,while only running 15psi. pretty scary considering hes getting a powerfc and boost up to 22-23psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...