Jump to content
SAU Community

Busted

race_snooze

By race_snooze,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

race_snooze Grand Master

race_snooze

Posted
Posted

Last night at about 10:30pm I got booked (long time coming you say)

Just on Gininderra Drive near dunlop.

Coming through a round about onto Gininderra he was coming opt direction, heading into the round about or about 10m before.

Any way they reackon they got me at 101 KPH how the f**k could i be at 101 just after a small round about, and they got me coming from the other direction, them at 54 KPH

Should I just pay it $208 and 3 points or folk out money to fight it. I may have been speeding but not 101 KPH Hard to do through that round about unless you take all the lanes up which i didnt.

Oh 80 zone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Did they get you on radar? Did you ask to look at the speed reading?

I usually suggest against fighting these. The only reason is because (a) you were speeding (not having a dig, we all do it), and if you lose the case the penalty is usually increased and you have to cover the court costs of the prosecuting side. So at the end of the day, if you have any doubts about wether you can win or not, just pay it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1587474
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

If they got you on radar your stuffed, unless you can spare the extra cash to hire a physics professor to somehow disprove the radar could work in the area.

Personally I would just pay it, odds are stacked against you and its not worth the chance of having the penalty increased and paying the prosecutions court costs :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1587503
Share on other sites
Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted

ouch! that sucks dude. i agree with amaru. as much as it might piss you off, i think its just easier to to cop it on the chin. (beau, thats not a sexual term! HAHA!)

however, it could also be worth your while writing a letter trying to get out of it. mentioning things like a good driving record...(hhmmmm, i wish!), and the fact the equipment may be faulty, might just get you off, if you word it right and the person who reads it hates his/her job enough to let you off. you might get lucky....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1587823
Share on other sites
Cristian Collaborator

Cristian

Posted
Posted

You can appeal it, just write a letter to the address listed and wait for a response. You dont have anything to loose.

What is your previous driving history like?

I remember getting pinned and I wrote a letter, the response I got back was; Due to my previous driving history we will withdraw the infringement.

Its worth a shot and wont cost much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1587826
Share on other sites
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
Last night at about 10:30pm I got booked (long time coming you say)

Just on Gininderra Drive near dunlop.

Coming through a round about onto Gininderra he was coming opt direction, heading into the round about or about 10m before.

Any way they reackon they got me at 101 KPH how the f**k could i be at 101 just after a small round about, and they got me coming from the other direction, them at 54 KPH

Should I just pay it $208 and 3 points or folk out money to fight it.  I may have been speeding but not 101 KPH  Hard to do through that round about unless you take all the lanes up which i didnt.

Oh 80 zone

There are a lot of signs and other objects on that roundabout to give false returns and reflections (I have a house in Dunlop). Often just the suggestion of such things and the fact you will drag them into court will get them to lower or drop the penalty altogether. Take a look at www.roadsense.com.au at the herald sun article 5 Aug for some radar camera examples and also go to the roadleagaloz forum from there for other advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1589585
Share on other sites
djhatton Proficient

djhatton

Posted
Posted

dude bad luck man!

i'd say if you genuinely believe you weren't doing 101kmh, ask for all the evidence and appeal it (in court if needs be). ask for the print-out from the radar and radar calibration history. its this last point that will most likely get you off. you can simply claim that the radar was out of whack in court (if the calibration tables were too old) and that will make the evidence null and void.

i was speaking to a driving infringement lawyer a few weeks ago about this very subject and she reckoned that she'd got plenty of people off this way. it might pay to make a phonecall or two to see if your case will stand up.

otherwise, its only $208 (or a big night out) and if you can spare the points, do it. will save you a lot of headache...

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1589755
Share on other sites
djhatton Proficient

djhatton

Posted
Posted

most speedo's are within 5% by adr specifications, but very few are actually that close...

i was in my mate's e32 750i the other day and what read like 240-250 felt more like 200ish.

and, OT, that things a bit of a darkhorse! goes from 100-200 quicker than it goes from 0-100!! hehe aaah 12cylinders.

one day when i'm filthy rich, i'm gonna have someone make me a rb52qetttt hehehehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1594682
Share on other sites
mjfawke Collaborator

mjfawke

Posted
Posted

Hmmmm..... did he get you on Radar or Laser? Radar used to be accurate to around 20 kph. With laser, don't even try it... +/- a couple of K, and a range of up to 1Km, and at least 500m.

Any just because you were going through the roundabout, doesn't mean he didn't get you before the roundabout.

I really hate the new cars with the clear lights. Too farkin hard to pick!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87971-busted/#findComment-1596424
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...