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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought a bunch of handling gear, waiting for it in the mail still.

after I get my mechanic mate to install it all, can I just take it to any alignment guys to get it all set up?

Edited by noise
I bought a bunch of handling gear, waiting for it in the mail still.

after I get my mechanic mate to install it all, can I just take it to any alignment guys to get it all set up?

Yep, any decent 4 wheel aligner should be capable. The recommended alignment settings are in the first post of this thread.

:rofl: cheers :rofl:

  • 1 month later...

Hey sorry am a little confused with the prices, will adding up all the prices for the individual items on your list give me the total? Just say I had a stock R34 GTT and pretty much wanted to buy every little part you could offer me, how much would I be looking at, minus the cost of installion?

I have HKS coilovers with a ride height of 330mm form the center of wheel to guard. Problem is, my camber is at -2.47 RL, -2.09 RR, -2.3 FL & -1.44 FR. What would be the best way to fix this as it doesn't look like the whiteline camber kit adjusts enough. Or will I have to raise my car up a bit.

Cheers

Hey sorry am a little confused with the prices, will adding up all the prices for the individual items on your list give me the total? Just say I had a stock R34 GTT and pretty much wanted to buy every little part you could offer me, how much would I be looking at, minus the cost of installion?

Hi, assuming you can use your standard tops, bump stops and bump rubbers and you don't need a front braces (it should already have one), prices as follows;

Front springs $144

Rear springs $144

Front Bilstein shocks $486

Rear Bilstein shocks $486

Rear adjustable stabiliser bar $219

Front adjustable stabiliser bar $219

Front camber kit $277

Front caster kit $115

Rear camber kit $118

Rear subframe alignment kit $110

Zero freight (order is over $500)

Sub total $2,318

Less 5% extra discount (order is over $1K) $116

Total $2,202

Note; that is with adjustable stabiliser bars, let me know if you want fixed rate bars and I will amend the price accordingly.

:P Cheers :D

I have HKS coilovers with a ride height of 330mm form the center of wheel to guard. Problem is, my camber is at -2.47 RL, -2.09 RR, -2.3 FL & -1.44 FR. What would be the best way to fix this as it doesn't look like the whiteline camber kit adjusts enough. Or will I have to raise my car up a bit.

Cheers

Hi, is that front or rear height and camber?

If it is front, then the front camber kit will bring it baack to the recommended setting.

If it is rear, then you will need 2 camber kits to bring it back to the recommended setting.

:P cheers :D

PS; 330 mm is really too low for good handling and ride comfort, around 350 mm is the lowest I would recommend.

^^^ What he said.

I had exactly the same setup (HKS coilovers, 330mm ride height) and the difference after raising it by ditching those damn things was pretty huge. I've since taken the car on a track and it handles great.... :D

Height is 330mm all round, the camber is both front and rear(RL=rear left, RR=rear right etc) maybe I will wind it up to 350mm then. Should that take the camber back to acceptable or will I still need the camber kits. Also would I need a wheel alignment If I just raised the suspension, I assume all the other settinfs should remain the same.

Cheers

Height is 330mm all round, the camber is both front and rear(RL=rear left, RR=rear right etc) maybe I will wind it up to 350mm then. Should that take the camber back to acceptable or will I still need the camber kits. Also would I need a wheel alignment If I just raised the suspension, I assume all the other settinfs should remain the same.

Cheers

-2.47 RL

-2.09 RR

-2.3 FL

-1.44 FR

Raising it to 350 mm should remove some of the static negative camber.

The problem you may still have is the differential side to side.

1. The 2.47 on the left rear and 2.09 on the right rear, will decrease but you may still have the 0.38 diference side to side. That's almost tolerable

1. The 2.30 on the left front and 1.44 on the right front, will decrease but you may still have the 0.86 diference side to side. That's a lot. Some people use more camber on the left to counteract the drift to the left caused by the slope into the gutter of the road's surface. This has the downside of increasing tyre wear on the LHS front.

A superior answer is to have more caster on the left front, works just as well exept it has no downside.

Since it has less camber on the right both front and rear, I suspect a height difference side to side. Have you checked that?

:unsure: Cheers :)

Yea, front right is 5mm higher than the front left and the rear right is about 3mm lower than the rear left. I suppose I should get them all the same first. I might raise them all to 350mm first and get a wheel alignment to check. What would the max camber be before you look at getting camber adjusters. I would only do about 7000-10000km per year.

Thanks for your replys.

how long will this group buy be on for and how much would shipping be to NZ

Cheers

Yea, front right is 5mm higher than the front left and the rear right is about 3mm lower than the rear left. I suppose I should get them all the same first. I might raise them all to 350mm first and get a wheel alignment to check. What would the max camber be before you look at getting camber adjusters. I would only do about 7000-10000km per year.

Thanks for your replys.

how long will this group buy be on for and how much would shipping be to NZ

Cheers

At 350 mm front height, most R32/33/34's don't need front camber correction, it usualy ends up around 1.0 to 1.5 degrees. At 340 mm rear height, most R32/33/34's do need rear camber correction to get to the target 0.5 to 1.0 degrees negative.

You should be able to buy the necessary camber kits from your local Whiteline dealer in NZ. If you have no joy, the postage is around $50 from Australia to NZ for the front and rear kits.

:D cheers :)

PS; remember every car is different.

  • 1 month later...
These settings also go for a non turbo? Sorry, didnt see this question asked already...

Yep, same suspension, very slight weight difference.

:happy: cheers :P

not sure what model car you are talking about, but for an R34 the turbo and non-turbo suspension is quite different.

R34GTT suspension has balls at the front and forks at the rear. (Like the R33GTR)

R34 n/a has balls at the front and balls at the rear.

not sure what model car you are talking about, but for an R34 the turbo and non-turbo suspension is quite different.

R34GTT suspension has balls at the front and forks at the rear. (Like the R33GTR)

R34 n/a has balls at the front and balls at the rear.

Correct, but the questions was settings, not shock absorber configuration. For the R34GT (non turbo) I use R33GTST rear shocks.

:( cheers :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Bilstein Australia have recently managed to tag onto a small production run of R34GTT and R34GT shock absorbers that was done for the Japanese Bilstein agent. They also managed to have the valving done to our specifications as per the previous Group Buy sales.

These shocks arrived via airfreight today. So there are currently several more sets of R34 Bilsteins available for anyone interested in the Group Buy kit.

:( cheers :)

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