Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

3040 bigger then 3037 right?

yeah i fink i should strengthen my box though

coz like i dun want it blowing when i start gettin up to the power output i want:)

so roughly i am after 300-400hp

do i really need to get a trust plenum for that sought of power?

adrian

Adrian,

No you don't need a Trust plenum for that, but it makes it easier to get that power. 3037 is HKS variant, they make minor adjustments to trims etc, over the garret unit. Both are around 550-600hp.

The box should be fine, how were you going to strengthen it?

See'ya:burnout:

what i meant

by strenghtening

was geta stronger box

u know like them aftermarket shifters?

but then i would rather spend the money on getting a manual conversion done ahh well auto will do for now, ah so ur using a garrett turbo smae specs as hks turbo?

but cheaper am i right?

so ur saying to build up revs in a auto, have the car in drive, and keep foot firmly on brake while reving then let gooff brake when it's time to roll?

adrian

Bully,

Seeing as your up, and I don't trust Adrian's opinion, can i ask you a serious question?

With these SAU shirts, would you like for us to organise one of each to be made so that all those interested could see what they are getting before they buy? I was thinking about one mans(L) and one womans(M), it would give people a better idea about sizes aswell.

See'ya:burnout:

Adrian, Yeah that's the best way to launch an auto.

Garret sell HKS some of there turbo's, which are only sold by HKS, therefore you cannot get a Garret turbo which has the same specs as the HKS one. But seeing as the HKS one is over $1000 more then I don't see where the real benefit is, I'd rather go for the Garret one which produces similar power.

See'ya:burnout:

troo troo good point

yeah i read bout garret providing hks turbos

and it also said who the other jap houses

got their turbos from :)

okay so the trust or subzero plenum is goin to be a 11th hour decision for me as well ;) argh i hate decisions

adrian :)

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Bully,

Seeing as your up, and I don't trust Adrian's opinion, can i ask you a serious question?

With these SAU shirts, would you like for us to organise one of each to be made so that all those interested could see what they are getting before they buy? I was thinking about one mans(L) and one womans(M), it would give people a better idea about sizes aswell.

See'ya:burnout:

Sorry had work to do ---- i think once a few see them more will want them thats the normal thing that happens i go along with that

Originally posted by Adrian_perth

what i meant

by strenghtening

was geta  stronger box

u know like them aftermarket shifters?

but then i would rather spend the money on getting a manual conversion done ahh well auto will do for now, ah so ur using a garrett turbo smae specs as hks turbo?

but cheaper am i right?

so ur saying to build up revs in a auto, have the car in drive, and keep foot firmly on brake while reving then let gooff brake when it's time to roll?

adrian

i launch mine in low then change up through 2 nd then to drive like a manual - i found i get better times that way,

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...