Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by darK

yea.. i was kiddin with the "kun"..

yea.. i know he's korean.. i was trying to speak german.. but i forgot it all ;)

lol

hahahah good try...

should say more like "An nyoung Ha Sae Yo!" :)

and also "kun" or "con" in Koean means Sir ;):(

Jap and Korean have similar sound words :(

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by macka

Mike dont wreck your car u only just got it going properly!!

I agree , don't **** with it until you are going to do some wholesale changes like aftermarket terbs etc.

Remember the ones at the track have no aircond , don't have to idle well , are running no airflow meters , hence no recirculating BOV's ... etc etc.

cheers

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

Remember the ones at the track have no aircond , don't have to idle well , are running no airflow meters , hence no recirculating BOV's ... etc etc.

cheers

Ken

Sounds like my car :(

Originally posted by gtrken

I agree , don't **** with it until you are going to do some wholesale changes like aftermarket terbs etc.

Remember the ones at the track have no aircond , don't have to idle well , are running no airflow meters , hence no recirculating BOV's ... etc etc.

cheers

Ken

Hmmm...once again the voice of reason rings loud in my ears.

Thanks Ken - just want a clean looking engine bay & less pipework so that I have a chance of understanding what is going to what:uh-huh:

Originally posted by Nizmo

*sigh* but front and rear have been swapped I watched them do it!

Ahh yes , I know that , you told me last night. ( remember , I stalk you Niz and hang of every word you say.... )

Did the problem get worse after they swapped them and why did they swap them in the first place.

I am not having a go at you but as I also mentioned last night , one of the major probs with doing correct diagnosis is knowing ALL the symptoms and what was happening leading up to the prob.

cheers

Ken

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
    • Cheers, yeah it was recently imported, is the actual Nissan not an Infiniti so will have to do some chasing around for parts.    Any ideas if the side skirts from a Q50 would fit on the 400r?
    • I remember reading that there’s a power steering pump from a modern car—possibly a Mazda—that bolts directly onto an RB engine and lines up perfectly, making it a great option for HICAS removal. Unfortunately, I’ve forgotten which model it came from. Does anyone know what vehicle this pump is from? Any help would be appreciated.
    • Yeah, it is a sand it all job tried to fit the centres and they don't fit anymore. Powder coat doesn't seem to be to thick so that's a plus.
    • Looks close enough to fool a few people into thinking it was a genuine 400R I'm sure. Well done 👍  
×
×
  • Create New...