Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by macka

ok with 5 secs looking at that dont buy resistive plugs

If you have a problem u can rectify it later as long as you find  A good Electronic Teck :P

Resistive plugs may cause u to have poor ignition bud  fact

Must be why Steve said not to go for them.

having said that, it seems to be against the norm but I trust his experience.

Plus for the $17.50 they cost, who cares if I need to change them for the others.

BTW - he put me onto 6's, not 7's as most other people use...

Originally posted by Micko

Must be why Steve said not to go for them.

having said that, it seems to be against the norm but I trust his experience.

Plus for the $17.50 they cost, who cares if I need to change them for the others.

BTW - he put me onto 6's, not 7's as most other people use...

But you need resistance plugs if the car is electronic computer managed according to the tech article.

Or have I missed something ?

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by macka

Yeah go the colder plugs

Not so easy to start in the cold just pretend ur startin a carbed XD

hehe

But it helps stop pinging :P

errr 6 is hotter than 7 . NGK goes the other way to most heat range spark plugs.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

But you need resistance plugs if the car is electronic computer managed according to the tech article.

Or have I missed something ?

Cheers

Ken

You're right ken - i might go get a set of resistor ones before i put the car back on the dyno - then i can compare them to see if there is a difference whilst the car is on the rollers:uh-huh:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • I do like the look of these things (minus the ugly flat top surface with the text) https://rajabracing.com.au/product/nissan-rb25det-neo-intake/ Retains the OEM bottom runners, for that phat low range. If you want response king, maybe go with the Plazmaman pipe work, here's my old setup from a decade ago
    • Torque will suffer greatly, will try and find dyno difference on r34 with gt30 between stock and plazmaman short runner. like 2000-3000rpm power rdip at least. EDIT Green line is stock manifold, others is plazmaman short runner I also had a rb25 with greddy and q45 TB back in the day and was shit daily driving. Plazmaman top plenum with stock runner and DBW made it so much nicer.
    • Welcome to !
    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...