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  • GTS-t VSPEC

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that pic was taken early morning back in feb of when I first had the cooler put in :) Looking at my car sat next to niz's made me see how crap the stock car looks :( I have a set of side skirts and rear pods, which I should get on in the next few weeks, then I might have a look around at a new front bar. I'm not sure about lowering the car though as I have a high kerb to get over on my driveway and the last thing I want to do is scrape a front bar on it. Plus pauls got some 18x9 enkei rims (only 2 though :D ) for my rear then I can wack some 255 rubber on em :)

thank u aidwin - yeah im pretty happy with the way my car looks - apart from my back wing is cracked and my dad did a bodgy job trying to fix it haha. All it needs is so go fast bits haha

yes i did thanks Kyles - can i get back to u a bit later - paul says its alright if i still go down with him so yeah just give me a couple of days to get my head straight and i'll figure out what is best for me to do :) Thank u again tho - thats most generous of u & Troy :D

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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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