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Paul - hahahah nice one - yeah I "heard" bam likes that type of thing hahahaha .... sorry Bam.... :P

Have you guys ever heard of the old style farming method of mulsing lambs (castrating) you turn the lamb over and slit the sack then take the balls out with yer teeth hahahah Its what they had to do when the balls hadn't dropped properly. My uncles told drew that - I'm gonna send him to the farms to try it hahaha harden the boy up

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    • Yes, I had ordered the spherical bushings at the same time as the rest. I have high hopes for the anti squat reduction kit. 
    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
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