Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

funny you should say that about the car interior, i washed my car yesterday and had full intention to clean the nside but..... i have left it.... its still got sanding dust inside from when it was in the panel beaters last month!!

i think that i have to get the seats shampooed too, the are looking pretty grotty!

how lucky are you?? my boss has just gone on a meeting... doens mean i will do any less tho, how can i do less than nothing??

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by Nizmo

$5,000 & Morphine wow .... *niz looks around for airtight doors* ...... Doh! :)

haha i bet you spend it on ya car anyway :)

Guys with cars n houses never spend any money on their house unless its neccessary!

i dunno hey, i was even thinking of selling the 180 and not even bothering with modified cars any more... ha wonder how long that would last!

but.. on that note i want my house to look as good as possible too..

Morning Snyps

Richie why was your car at the panel beater - spill the story!!

Nah good vacumme and some TLC will sort mine out and more strawberry airfreshners hehe my other ones have run out of puff!! At one stage you would open my car and this big waft of strawberry come out hehe chicks car :)

Originally posted by snyper510

Wot y'all up to?

Richie - whining coming from back of car under acceleration usually means ur diff is on its way out

it doesnt whine below 120 tho... i dunno.. more money...

my car had the sopiler removed and then the holes welded up and painted... got to take it back tho cause the wanker didnt match the colour properly...

i like that air freshener that smells like new car!

nothing going on today, i think that my day is getting worse. i was thinking that it miht be the diff but i was hoping that it might just be a wheel bearing.

once you work in a caryard for 3 years - your over the new car smell haha.

hey Ross :)

My car still vibrates the wheel badly at 130km an hour!! (yes wheels have been balnced and aligned etc) its funny cos you'll let it drop back to 128 and it'll stop but as soon as it hits 130km the left front wheel starts vibrating first ..... then push it to 135km/hr and they all start joining in :)

Originally posted by Nizmo

once you work in a caryard for 3 years - your over the new car smell haha.  

hey Ross :)

My car still vibrates the wheel badly at 130km an hour!! (yes wheels have been balnced and aligned etc) its funny cos you'll let it drop back to 128 and it'll stop but as soon as it hits 130km the left front wheel starts vibrating first ..... then push it to 135km/hr and they all start joining in :)

thats no good!!

i wouldnt have a clue what that could be, maye your rotors are a little warped?

i know where i might have seen your car before, like before you had it... i am pretty sure that when i used to live in east freo the car used to visit next door to where i lived.

if my rotors were warped wouldnt they said something to me when they took them off and were machining them etc ?

possibly Richie .... but my cars a bit like a relationship - you like to live under the illusion that they havent had any lovers before you :)

yeah - thats what we thought mine were ..... my tyres had the worst eggs in them co si drove around for so long with phucked shockies .... so about a month ago i got new tyres :) .... so they are definately better!! But still cant get rid of the 130+ vibration .... which is no good .... i guess it keeps me on the good side of the law but still ruins fun cos my car steering wheel starts going crazy and you feel like you aint got as much control as you should over the car - so i usually back off once i hit that.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...