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Looks like I am going to be carless from monday to wednesday next week. Truck driver at work swiped my rear wing and took the paint off it and some fibreglass chunks and a smallish scrape where the spoiler meets the rear 1/4, lucky no major body damage or panel damage. So its off to get that fixed and I'm paying to have the key scratches and bootlid latch fixed up on the rest of the boot... little shits trying to steal the nissan badge.

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    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
    • With ordering the belt, you're doing water pump and the idler and tensioner at the same time too yes?
    • This is just a dumb way of keeping the wastegate closed to make more boost. Undo it and either follow the factory setup or redo it properly. Manual boost controllers just use a spring preload to determine when to close in response to boost pressure so it no longer vents to atmosphere.
    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
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