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this is what he got in

BANZAI MOTOR SPORTS

ITEMS IN STOCK:

•HKS GT2530 BB TURBO FOR RB20/25 GOOD CONDITION 320HP $1,650

•HKS GT2530 BB TURBO BRAND NEW 320HP $2,300

HKS T3G NON BB TURBO TO SUITE RB20/25 RATED SAME SIZE AS GT2530 $800

•HKS T300S (T4 STYLE FLANGE) GOOD FOR 450-500HP SUIT 2LITRES OR UP $1,300

•HKS T04R KIT FOR RB20/25 650HP KIT INCLUDES(HKS T04R TURBO, HKS CAST LOW MOUNT MANIFOLD, HKS EXTERNAL WASTEGATE, GREDDY TYPE R BOV AND SOME ADDITIONAL PIPING)

$2,600

•2X HKS GT2835R TURBO’S BY THEMSELVES EXTERNAL TYPE

$3,500 FOR PAIR OR $1,800 EACH

•HKS SQV NEW TYPE BOV KIT FOR RB20 GOOD CONDITION $310

•HKS USED T04R TURBO BY ITSELF 650HP RATING $2,000

•HKS NEAR NEW STEP II GTR CAMS 264IN 272OUT $800

•HKS USED MUCHROOM FILTER $90

•APEXI EL SERIES II BOOST GAUGE 60MM MECHANICAL NEW $220

•BLITZ SUPER SOUND BOV USED, KIT FOR S13 SR20 AND CA18 $220

•GREDDY TYPE R RACING BOV USED KIT FOR GTR GOOD CONDITION $350

•GREDDY V-SPL INTERCOOLER KIT NEW FOR S13 $1,550

•S14 STANDARD JAP SPEC BALL BEARING TURBO AWSOME ON CA18 OR S13 SR20 $800

•1JZ 2X STANDARD CT12 TURBO’S CHEAP!!!!! $400

•6X STANDARD R34 GTR INJECTORS, GOOD UPGRADE ON CA18 ETC $650

•NEW Z32 AIR FLOW METRE $450

•S13 STANDARD SR20 T25G TURBO GOOD CONDITION $400

•HKS 850CC INJECTORS FOR 1JZ/2JZ WITH FUEL RAIL $900

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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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