Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my mechanic said to start of with a mineral oil for some reason, then after xxx kms move on to semi-synthetic, then after another xxx kms move on the synthetic.......don't think that really helps lol......but yeah, I haven't got my car back yet either so i'd be interested to hear brand names etc.

Must be glad to get it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1594566
Share on other sites

I am sure there will be w/shops who say it's wrong but this is what we do.

Valvoline LoVis mineral oil in with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Refill again with Lo Vis and new filter ( as all engines have particles in them and need to be removed from the engine asap so hopefully will be trapped in the filter).

Do 500km at moderate revs and load and change again.

Put on a semi sythnetic based oil and up the load/revs but not flat out till about 1,000km.

Put onto full synthetic ( we use Mobil 1) and belt away....

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1594822
Share on other sites

Dru, do a search, I posted a very detailed run in procedure for all engines, also Motul and Pennzoil have specific run in oils that you can get, some from Autobarn from memory!!!

did you read my post? :)

i did search.. i searched "RB26 run in oil"

thanks ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1594957
Share on other sites

I pretty much did what GTRken described.

I used a plain mineral oil with ZERO friction modifiers.

Mineral Motul 10w30 until 10,000km's then went synthetic.

I had to wire open the wastegate and get some decent load in to it as it was trying to boost 10-12psi under 2000rpm at wot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1595590
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter,

And yes Ken I read your post, maybe you should try searching under OTHER things...

As I have already said Motul make a specific run in oil, mineral based. Same with Pennzoil...maybe have a look on their sites, and as I said in the thread above, if your engine builder cannot give you a detailed run in procedure...get another engine builder!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1596503
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter,

if your engine builder cannot give you a detailed run in procedure...get another engine builder!!!

i am helping the builder out a lot with the build, and if i can question what he thinks and suggest different ideas then why not

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1596819
Share on other sites

i am helping the builder out a lot with the build, and if i can question what he thinks and suggest different ideas then why not

thanks

I am not disagreeing with the above, I have built many engines, however I will never proclaim to be an encyclopedia nor a professional engine builder. Also the info on the internet can be somewhat muddied at times.

He should have a plan especially for the run in, taking into consideration the engine characteristics, including but not limited to, honing, type of pistons, rings, clearances, squish, bearings etc etc etc

At the end of the day, you did ask for run in oil and you have your answer... :lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1597100
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I know this post is old but this may help someones understanding of the above in the future. I hope :P

Anyway. To the best of my knowledge since mineral oil reduces friction less then the synthetics, it helps aid the bedding in process. If u went for a synthetic oil straight off it would take far longer to run ur engine in, as the aim of the synthetic is minimal ware.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1615605
Share on other sites

i would never use a fully or semi synthetic in a new engine. I ended up using valvoline mono-grade 30w oil for my run in. waited around 1500k's then changed oil and filter with motul turbo-light 4100.. its working a treat... but with most run-in 'procedures' just drive it like ur gonna drive it.. buit i didnt within he first 3-400 k's.. but after then... strap it..

each to their own.. time for sleep too many bourbans :P

Bubye

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1615671
Share on other sites

We do basically what gtrken posted....

Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so will be bypassed.

Check basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor.

Drive to Bathurst and back, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc

Refill with Castyrol Formula R Synthetic, new oil filter.

Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno.

Go racing

:P Cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1615761
Share on other sites

SK's advice/practice is also similar to that used for new motorcycles. Remember Jap bikes also have an integral gearbox design, with shift quality closely linked (and really obvious to the rider) to a good run-in. Mineral oils allow more effective bed-in between surfaces, and there are many reports of a result similar to bore glazing from guys who thought they were looking after their engines by using a synthetic from new.

Brand of oil probably less important, but do use mineral oil for a period of hours, then go to synthetic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1616557
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...