Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.hks-tf.co.jp/info/zeror.htm

Found a link to this on Fast Fours forum :P

Can't translate fully from work, but the parts lists certainly make it look like they are bringing back a new improved version of the Zero R..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88487-hks-zero-r/
Share on other sites

Guest DIRTgarage
http://www.hks-tf.co.jp/info/zeror.htm

Found a link to this on Fast Fours forum :P

Can't translate fully from work, but the parts lists certainly make it look like they are bringing back a new improved version of the Zero R..

looks like old info on the "SUPER TWOOGLE" to me!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88487-hks-zero-r/#findComment-1597133
Share on other sites

Look further down the page at the 2005 specs.

Nismo GT block, HKS 2.8L kit, VCAM, HKS GT2530's etc. Looks like the mouldy Zero-R's are making a come back :P

wow....so there will be a "SUPER TWOOGLE" after all......hell they even copied our turbo set-up....lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88487-hks-zero-r/#findComment-1597219
Share on other sites

oh man, if they do rejuvinate those Zero R's i sincerely hope i have the dough to buy one.

I have that mag somewhere (HPI) with the photos of them behind the HKS factory...what a waste.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88487-hks-zero-r/#findComment-1597374
Share on other sites

here's the google translation of the new car spec:

Nismo GT block Tensioner - pulley

HKS RB26 2.8LKIT Tensioner - spring

87 pie metal head gaskets RB26 VCAM SYSTEM photo1 photo2 photo3

Nismo oil pan baffle Oil piping short part

Strengthening oil pump Strengthening valve spring

Dummy head boring EG mount R/L

Cylinder head balancing plane research Fan belt

Engine block top surface research Power steering belt

Phosphorus bronze valve guide replacement Nismo intake collector

Valve seat cutting R45 plug

Nismo main bearing center Nismo フュエールレギュレーター

Nismo connecting rod metal Fail filter

Nismo bearing inner GT2530 sport turbine KIT

Connecting rod metal adjusting Extension KIT

Main bearing adjusting Stainless steel front pipe

Engine disassembly / attachment Genuine EX マニ

HKS strengthening timing belt サムコ power steering hose

Idler pulley Air conditioner belt

Cooling system

HKS oil cooler

3 layer copper ラジエター

LLC

Body and underside, drive system, other things

Nismo kappa mixed twin C'S quick shift

HKS hyper MAX? U damper (ZERO-R SP) 3.9 Final F. R photo1 photo2 photo3

Alignment adjustment set Brake master cylinder

Nismo tension rod Brake pipe

Nismo front upper link Brake hose

Nismo front upper link AP Racing formula - brake KIT F

Nismo rear A arm AP Racing formula - brake KIT R

Nismo rear upper link F Brake fluid F706

Nismo rear upper link R ADVAN ネオバ 245/40-18 F and R

Rear suspension mount bush サベルト seat belt

Nismo diff. mount bush KIT All pen, aero correction

ゲトラグ 6MT HKS Kansai MT member color

Nismo 6MT converting KIT

Inhalation and exhalation of air system

Catalyst for NISSAN

Computer

HKS F CON-V PRO

HKS F CON-V PRO harness

Pressure sensor

Pressure sensor harness

HKS EVC? W

デフィー thermometer

デフィー manometer

Unit

I would even take one of the original ones, with a little freshen up :P

BTW Ben Ellis' article was wrong they are an overbored 2.6l to 2.7 (well 2.688) not a stroked 2.8 litre.

Crazy that they were 16 million yen at the time when the regular GTR was 4.5 million. Also interesting that they quote the stock GTR as weighing 1700kgs, but their zero-r as 1480?? how did they save 220kgs? by adding heavier brakes, heavier wheels etc??? doesn't make sense to me, but still an awesome car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88487-hks-zero-r/#findComment-1597395
Share on other sites

the front page of the HKS website's read "HKS Zero R begins to move again" for about a week now. So yeah, refreshed Zero-R's just in time to cash in on the people umming and aahhing over buying the Nismo Z Tune. Factory warranty too :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88487-hks-zero-r/#findComment-1597425
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...