Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Dynoed Rb20det


Waldo
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey guys just got my rb20 tuned and finished today, its didnt pull the power i wanted but i think this is due to lack of boost, i have high flowed turbs and all the supporting mods to run over 320rwhp, but when they went to tune it at 18psi, it would spike there then drop straight back to 12psi, wat is the deal there, there is no leaks in the cooler pipin anywhere as they thoroughly went over them, could this be the actuator on the turbo giving in, or would it be the stock bov opening up? how to i test these 2 things, any recommendations on wat it is would be greatly appreciated. So atm its tuned on 12psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats the thing, they installed my apexi boost kit for the power fc, they said it wasnt working very well because it kept losing so much boost and couldnt hold it at 18psi at all, so i gave them my old manual boost controller, and they tuned it for 12psi and said that the manual one worked a bit better and wasnt so spiky, they still couldnt get it to stay at 18psi with the manual boost kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found my stock actuator would drop back to 10-11psi at any boost above that.

An aftermarket adjustable would be well worth a look for 2 reasons: 1) you can set a higher base boost on the actuator and so are garanteed of that whatever your ebc does, and 2) The higher the base you set, the easier it will be for the ebc to do it's job and as a result you will have a more stable system with less spiking and a flat line to redline.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have a feeling the stock actuators aren't that good at holding anything above 10psi, unless combined with a decent EBC to pulse it.. Mine can sit on 13-14psi, but always dribbles back to 10-11psi in the higher rev range.

It may be one of those varying things - some factory ones may be fine, others get old and not so good.

I've got an RB20 and RB25 actuator sitting around, should do a couple of swaps and see which is better (onto rb25 turbo).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No.

Boost ramps up harder.

Try not to think about it too much. It works, that is why adjustable rods were created. :blink:

The RB25/VG30 actuator is quite soft and can be adjusted by hand, the RB20 on the other hand requires a big dirty screw driver to be levered against the elbow.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok so buy moving the whole actuator foward when the rod opens fully it is not open as much as it was originally, but doesnt a spring collapse easier once you have started to sqaush it. thus causing the wastegate to open earlier, or is it the other way around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Took a little trip  went to nismo hoping the get my fuel tank hoses and unfortunately they told me they didn’t have stock luckily I was able to go to a Nissan parts store and they were able to order them in for me  then can home and cleaned the tank with some degreaser and fitted the new hoses before putting it back in the car 
    • 100% I’ll hack into the 33. Strap a turbo onto the RB25DE and/or put the 25 head on a 30 block. 33 passed in cos the reserve was too high. I’ll try lowballing it again and negotiate. Aim is to have it landed and on the road for under 15k, then spend the same amount on top in mods.
    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
×
×
  • Create New...