Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz i just took my door trim off coz my drivers side window isnt working and i checked the switch and its working and the relay box is workin as well. So im wondering how hard is it to remove the electric window motor.

what do you do to take the motor off??? i would love some help and even pics if anyone can be so kind :)

any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I've used the bent screwdrivers and also a little $2 ratchet thing that had Philips Heads bits. (gotta be small though)

Putting the replacement back in is harder than getting the old one out.

I've found that you have to get the window into the totally up position to re-install.

El Bee

Thanks looks like i'm headin to the hardware store this week and lookin for a DAMN tiny ratchet set with phillips head. I've already lost the skin off my knuckle with blood now left somewhere in the drivers door!!! ahh the complexity of a japanese car never ceases to amaze me!!!

Ryan

Thanks looks like i'm headin to the hardware store this week and lookin for a DAMN tiny ratchet set with phillips head. I've already lost the skin off my knuckle with blood now left somewhere in the drivers door!!! ahh the complexity of a japanese car never ceases to amaze me!!!

Ryan

I've done this a couple of times. You need a 90 degree #2 or larger phillips head. Ratcet or fixed. Use 2 soft clamps to hold the window up, then unscrew the 4 screws that hold the motor in place against the inner door skin. then work the motor down the inside along the tracks so you have room to move. Now you can remove the 3 inner screws as well as an acre of skin :confused:

When installing the new one put it in as low as possible on the curved gear, then hook up the electrics and wind it gradually up into line so the door skin screws line up.

Tint is safe and new motor in.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...