Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure how you clean metal mesh filters. I would presume you just spray them with some sort of mild solvent (contact cleaner maybe?) or soak them in something for awhile then wash them out and let them dry.

Any metal mesh filter experts around? :) Either way, they don't need oiling. And because you say it's metal, I'm pretty sure it's a Blitz (could be wrong though)

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you don't oil it then it will just let through the smaller particles of dust. Which may not be that bad if you don't drive through any particularly dusty areas, but keep in mind that even when oiled the HKS filters let in a fair few particles of dust. They're designed for the track, where dust and engine longevity usually aren't of much concern.

That said though, I bought my car with a crappy unoiled Redline pod filter which you could actually SEE gaping holes in, and I don't think the engine is any worse for it even though it was a couple of months before I got my Apexi pod. But then again, I never made a habit of driving it through dust storms either :)

INASNT, all I can say is don't believe everything you read. I read that article too and that's why I bought the Apexi. But after I installed it, the Apexi seemed to be more restrictive than the old HKS I had borrowed off a friend. The car had noticably less up-top than it did when I had the HKS in.

Once I installed the cold air box this got resolved and I couldn't tell any difference between them, so I think just by design the HKS will suck in less hot air from the sides. So I'm thinking it has a better ram air effect than the Apexi, and if you don't have an air box/don't want one/can't afford one/whatever, the HKS is probably a better filter to buy.

I know enough about foam filters (ie, crap at filtering) to believe their filtration test results though, which is the main reason I bought the Apexi.

mm2 death: you must oil the k&n filters after you wash them, they filter much better.

ive got a puple HKS filter on my 180sx, it came in with the car and its half purple half black, so i must wash it right away and oil it.

i beleive there are a few different colours with the hks; green, yellow, red and purple.

ps- so whats the best stuff to use when washing the hks; soap n water then oiling, or degreaser and then oiling???

the previous owner fitted the APEXI pod on my car, its due for a clean I was going to rinse it degreaser, fresh water and use the K&N oil even though its a mesh filter. Had a mesh K&N air box filter on my previous car and this worked fine

Originally posted by JimX

Once I installed the cold air box this got resolved and I couldn't tell any difference between them, so I think just by design the HKS will suck in less hot air from the sides. So I'm thinking it has a better ram air effect than the Apexi, and if you don't have an air box/don't want one/can't afford one/whatever, the HKS is probably a better filter to buy.

Jimx whats the deal on this cold air box, simlar to a factory air box or is a heat shield for the pod? how much and where ? keen for cold air induction and a factory non defect look ....

The Apexi pod doesn't need cleaning, or rather can't handle it. I think it's generally advertised as lasting forever, but I would probably replace it when it got too dirty.

I got my cold air box from UAS, it's just a partition with a lid on it. Looks really nice though, worth the money I reckon (about $180). The only problem with it is that it doesn't have a scoop or anything. I'm thinking of cutting a hole in my panel and running some PVC tubing down to the front guard. Just need to get motivated :D

i cleaned my POD filter the other week with the K&N recharge Kit! what a big difference it makes to you r car. I also changed plugs too. The thing is running ever so sweetly now. Full wheel spin off the gas on low boost (7.5psi), no clutch.

THe weather in Petrh's is a bit hot lately to run high boost. can't wait for a cooler day/night....

Originally posted by INASNT

dont spend $180 on a UAS 1, u can make your own 1 for a quarter of that!

Yes, but it takes time and probably won't look as good. How much is a weekend's worth of running around securing materials and drawing up plans and building worth to you? To me it was worth about $180 :D I knew there were plans for it lying around, but I cbf'd making one myself. I installed the box myself, that was enough of a challenge :P

I'm even considering getting the Hills Motorsport aluminium one at some point, it costs around $400. Might wait until I can afford all the hardcore stuff at once though.

What is the Hills Motorsport box?

Since you've already paid $180 for the UAS and are wanting this aluminium one costing $400 i'm guessing it is an upgrade.

I'm getting a FMIC in 2 weeks and already have the above mentioned mesh POD, should I be looking at the Hills box or the UAS one? I'll be running 1bar or more boost if that is a variable in this equation.

Thanks Jimmy,

Mark

Originally posted by JimX

Yes, but it takes time and probably won't look as good. How much is a weekend's worth of running around securing materials and drawing up plans and building worth to you? To me it was worth about $180 :D I knew there were plans for it lying around, but I cbf'd making one myself. I installed the box myself, that was enough of a challenge :D

I'm even considering getting the Hills Motorsport aluminium one at some point, it costs around $400. Might wait until I can afford all the hardcore stuff at once though.

Well i didnt make mine with the lid coz my pod was 2 big to fit in the box with the stock IC piping.

I paid about $40 for material and on a saturday i enjoy doing stuff to my car! :rolleyes: So i saved quite a bit! Did the UAS box fit perfectly? and do u have a fmic or the stock 1 still?

INASNT, The UAS one isn't a "perfect" fit, but it's better than I could do myself :rolleyes: I have FMIC. If you enjoy making stuff yourself then I say go for the home-made version. I just didn't have the time or patience to build it, though I do admit that putting the pre-fab'd one in was fun. I built a subwoofer box for my Commodore a couple of years ago and that was "kind of" fun, but I think this time around I'll pay someone else to do it :D

MRK25T, the Hills version is a proper sealed box with a bottom as well rather than just a partition with a lid. It's aluminium rather than fibreglass and hella sexy. It's probably not worth the price difference based on performance improvement, but the Hills one looks better (IMO) and is of a better design. It's up to you which you prefer and how much you want to spend. I don't know if I'll ever get it, it's something that I think would be nice to have but the UAS fibreglass one is good enough for now.

I was going to refer you to my original thread about it, but since then I've moved the pics out of my webspace :rolleyes:

I don't have any pics of the box here at work, I'll put some up when I get home.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...