Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest lextreme

Hey Miles B aka Fred Smith,

Hello everyone, first time in this forum. Greeting from the United States. I have done some to my car recently (6 months ago). With 8 psi my car achieved 324.5 rwhp. Currently, my spare engine is being built as we speak. The 1UZFE will be getting JE forged Dish pistons with 8.0 to 8.5:1 in mind. Some valve work and along with O-ring the heads and groove the block with copper gasket and ARP head studs. We are aiming 20 psi and shooting for 600-650 rwhp.

The limited for this setup will be the transmission and the RB25 turbos. This will be a daily driver with two baby seats behind. If you need more information, please visit www.lextreme.com

I will be shooting for 11 seconds this summer.

bit of random info on the lexus v8.

my father has one which was done in a track racing jet boat. because basically the dollars stopped we never ended up getting this to run its full potential. but we were close.

on this engine these are some of the things we did (from memory so some of the details i forget)

the block had the holes for the head studs drilled and helicoiled for larger head studs

custom forged pistons. 6:1 compression ratio

custom cams 630 lift nearly no overlap

custom intake manifold

2 x 2.5 litre super chargers running 2 or 3 x the speed of engine

we used heater elements in the intake manifold running fresh water from the under the boat to cool the air.

we were running to barry grant carbs (we couldnt get big ennuff jets to flow the fuel we needed so we got the smallest drill bits and drilled some out to stop getting det)

standard crank

standard rods

we only ever had this engine on the dyno once and got 900 horse power (6000 rmp) . cant remember the touque. at that time we only had 14 degress advancement. when we stopped working on the engine we had the advancement set on 32 degress. no dett what so ever. in a 50 second run it would drink approx 9 litres of c-16 racing fuel. we were running cold water from the track straight thought the engine yet still after 1 min we would have to leave the boat 15-20 mins to cool down as the super chargers were getting too hot.

the lowest we could idle was 1700 rmp.

we used carbs because it was easier than trying to house 24 injectors (which is what we calc we would have needed at the time)

this engine also has a HUGE solid al pulley on the frount which would have to weight 1-2 kg. i mean its two inches think. that would bring the dyno horse power down due to having to spin that thing up.

also we were running 40 psi of boost.

guessing by the size of the blades (in jet unit) we were running compared to others whom ran the same size that had has there engines dyno'd we could only presume that we were producing arround 1200-1400 horsepower.

some of the things that needed to be re done to inprove performance

extractors - they were made by some aussie f#$@ head who thought that a little 4 litre engine only needed small pipes. we were going to make a set that 2 1/4 inch pipe from each port running into 3 1/2 or 4 inch extractors.

a new manifold was going to be made to house meth injectors.

and we were considering a psi corp super charger.

the engine is sitting in ma workshop in a frame that who knows what my crazy father is really doing with it.

if anyone wants pics i had a camera phone but no digital camera.

Matty B

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...