Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My R33 GTST is up the shitter, i've been told it needs a rebuild

Piston no2 is supposedly has a fracture and is only at 40% compression ratio.

I'm looking at over $3K is that right??

Take of the head etc. maybe might have a bad injector aswell

Can anyone list me more horror stories i'm about to encounter in there aswell???

Now i'm sort of stuck with the do I get a standard set of pistons or go the forge ones.

I've been advised that WISECO are good for it and Tomei

HKS and all the other name brands are way out of th price range.

Everyone I know is telling me go the forge, because i'm in there anyway do it right and its about $500 more.

ANyone know of prices for these mentioned forges around Perth or best to import them direct??

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88924-how-much-are-engine-rebuilds-roughly/
Share on other sites

If you can't afford jap pistons stick with stock ones, i don't rate yank stuff like arias, wiseco etc, and a set of hks pistons if you get them from greenline are not that expensive and of a much better spec and quality than the yank stuff..

as for a rebuild, if you buy the pistons budget 2-3k, by the time you factor in labour to remove and put the motor back in, which should take about a day, maybe a day and a bit, to strip the motor down, check, inspect and then reasemble, measure, check, re measure, buy bearings, gaskets, head gasket etc it will come in around the 2-3k from most workshops at a guess..

2nd hand motor range between 2-3k plus installation cost

I'm also in the middle of considering a rebuild. Leakdown and compression test came out bad. Looking for forged pistons as well. You can checkout modyourcar for rough prices

Question is, who can build me a RB30 in perth :-)

actually, where to find a RB30 in perth?

It all depends on what you wanna spent or can spent. When my Gtr's bottom end went, i could just change the crankshaft and be done with it but instead i opted for pistons/rebore/metal gaskets...etc

I agree though that if you wanna put pistons, might as well put Tomei/HKS rather than the Arias. But if you are not gonna be pushin your car hard, then i reckon the Arias will do. As a Trader, i reckon you should shop around and keep asking places like C-red / Hyperdrive..etc.

just recently had mine rebuilt, cost nearly 6K plus forged pistons + head reco ect...

i was orignally going to go stock pistons, but i got CP forgies, because my engine builder recommend them and could source them for the same price as stockers

cool thanks for the replies. Damn its getting damn expensive the problem with the 2nd hand motor you don't know how thrashed that was before and I could be looking at the same problem 1yr down the track.

But crap $5-8K for rebuild oh damn.

I tried looking for Tomei and HKS forgies on greenline and nengun but none mentioned for a RB25 it only had SR20 or RB26. Can anyone point out a model number??

Buy a 3L bottom end ($100-150 complete with rods and pistons), slam your head on it, change the engine number to what you have already on the RB25 and bingo - torque monster engine.

Pretty sure cosworth make tomei pistons, and JE make HKS pistons - may be worth seeing if you can find them, or better still - see if you can source an RB26 crank, rods and pistons - you see them come up second hand from time to time when guys do stroker upgrades.

Buy a 3L bottom end ($100-150 complete with rods and pistons), slam your head on it, change the engine number to what you have already on the RB25 and bingo - torque monster engine.

Pretty sure cosworth make tomei pistons, and JE make HKS pistons - may be worth seeing if you can find them, or better still - see if you can source an RB26 crank, rods and pistons - you see them come up second hand from time to time when guys do stroker upgrades.

ive got a perfect cond rb26 crank and rods for sale in perth ready for inspection for $650 :)

0402 622 317 if u want to call :)

cheers

Brad

If you just want to swap your engine over, there is a guy here http://www.teamloveofdrift.com/driftwa/viewtopic.php?t=78

selling RB25 engine for $2200, swap it over, then sell some bits off your engine (such as the head) to make some money back.

Probably the cheapest option, but the least fun :P

I've rebuilt my engine. From memory, as far as minimum parts go your looking at:

*Pistons

*Complete Gasket Set

*Water Pump (always worth replacing when doing rebuild)

*Fluids, Filters

*Machine the block

*Tidy the head

*Labour

Optional parts included:

*Fuel pump (although not part of engine rebuild, probably the cause of the detonation that caused #2 to shat itself)

*Clutch (option while the engine is out, may need one anyway)

*More labour

Buget an easy $6K...

Sounds like ure making a sandwich there Steve. I dont think its that easy. Plus once u get locked into a serious rebuild the tendency is to push it as far as it will go.  :)

Plus once u get locked into a serious rebuild the tendency is to push it as far as YOU CAN

ps HAHAHAH that made me laugh :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...