Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The best setup for a turbo car is for virtually no restriction. The exhaust wheel will spin more freely the less exhaust backpressure there is. A 3.5" system sounds good, and removal of centre mufflers and cat will also work well, the less restriction the better.

See'ya:burnout:

JiMiH,

With a factory turbo on a samll capacity engine then there is almost no benefit to going too big, I'd say that a 4" dump is more than enough.

sidewaymambo,

The best in terms of power is a dump with nothing after it, but this is too loud and the cops will pull you over straight away. A large dump with separate wastegate pipe followed by no cat or cetre muffler and with a muffler at the very end is the best street setup. Be warned however that this is still very loud and no cat is illegal.

See'ya:burnout:

I can testify to my brothers 180SX which runs an apexi N1, fat dump pipe and no cat. Goes like s.hit of a shiny shovel, but the drawbacks are A: no cat's are highly illegal and B: the noise shakes your car port apart when you come home and leave the turbo timer on.

GTSt V-Spec: you know anyone in perth who does good dump pipes?

There are plenty of people who can do a good exhaust dump but I tend to use Genie exhausts in Myaree, they are very good as the do all of the Xspeed work and are now very good at doing custom work for Jap cars.

See'ya:burnout:

I have an R33 with stock turbo + Nismo 3" Cat-back exhaust.

Can someone -please- give me an exact URL of exactly what front section of my exhaust i need to replace the standard section ?

I have absolutely no idea what i need, where to get it done and how much it'll cost but i -do- want to get it done very soon.

benm,

If you go to any exhaust place and ask for a custom turbo dump pipe with separate internal wastegate pipe to connect to your 3" system then they should have no problems. Expect to pay anywhere from $250-$350 for a custom job, you can always buy a Jap dump but they are usually more expensive.

See'ya:burnout:

GODF4Th3R,

Doing everything it alway the best, the dump is very important, but if your strangling it with the front pipe and cat then it's not going to do too much. The exhaust will only flow as well as the most restrictive bit.

Hi-flow cat's are the go, will add a little bit extra power at standard boost, but will make more difference as you increase the power.

See'ya:burnout:

Your dead right, heat is our enemy. By increasing the airflow then the heat is removed via the exhasut system, with a restriction in the exhasut then it causes excessive heating of the turbo exhaust housing and this leads to the car pinging as it pre-heats the air.

See'ya:burnout:

I got XSpeed to get me the whole lot (dump, front pipe and 3" hi flo) They get theirs done at Genie Myaree as GTSt VSpec mentioned earlier. It cost me just under $800.

Apparently, it used to be cheaper as they used different cat(ceramic?), but they tended to break apart. Mine was one of the newer designs. It cost a little more, but I haven't had any problems so far.

Another question; isn't is true that the further from the turbo the restriction (eg the rear silencer) the less effect on back pressure and HP? So if you do the dump and front pipe in a decent size (say 4") then run a high flow cat and legal 3" cat back it should be better than running say a stock dump and front pipe with a 3.5" cat back?

G0DF4Th3R,

Kichigai is right, you can get a complete system from Genie pretty cheap these days, but if you want a name brand muffler like APexi/Trust etc then they cost about $500 by themselves.

Ronin 09,

Yes your right, what happens is that a wave of backpressure, like sound waves, oscillates between the ends of the exhaust system, the further the restrtictions are away the less effect this has on the backpressure and ultimately HP, also the reason tuned length exhaust manifold are better.

See'ya:burnout:

Oh man i wish i could find a workshop that actually knew what they were on about.

Midas had no idea and told me to come back next tuesday when their "exhaust specialist" would be in and Muffler man just told me to go and see a turbo shop.

ARGH maybe i should just walk in somewhere with a $50 note glued to my head so that they realise im serious.

Benm, search the threads for 'exhaust' and see if there are any recommended in Perth. I would get a custom dump and front pipe made for your car instead of getting the Nismo one, as it will be heaps cheaper and do as good a job. Because your Nismo cat back is already pretty quiet, the addition of the dump and front pipe shouldn't add too much dB.

Or you could get a premade dump and front pipe from somewhere like Japanese Motorsport, they have stainless dump pipes for 350 and stainless front pipes for 350. Just make sure they will bolt up to the cat converter in the factory position (assuming you have the stock cat)

-cheers m

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...