Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My cars in to get a few mods put on....

Was just a bit amazed at how long they have estimated it will take to put on a few standard sorta mods. The place is quite professional andwell known, just a bit amazed.

FMIC, air filter, dump pipe, cold air intake. What would be your guess? I know that alot of people have had to to move a few bits n pieces on their gt-ts + other cars to fit the FMIC.

car is a 99 GT-T

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89120-time-taken/
Share on other sites

im not 100% sure but i would estimate around 2 hours (or a bit more) for the intercooler, Hour of even less for the dump. And the Cold air intake is a piss nothing job.

Edited by krzysiu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89120-time-taken/#findComment-1609446
Share on other sites

allow 6 hours for fmic if they are welding up the pipes from scratch, if its a kit probably half the time. depends if they get interrupted during the work. rule of thumb, get what they quote and add another day

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89120-time-taken/#findComment-1609461
Share on other sites

I mean if a mechanic was to dedicate a time frame to sit down and do it from start to finish, in hours.

Ah, I see what you mean now. Paul's reply is pretty much spot on. I can guess a few workshops it could be from Perth, but how long have they said it will take???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89120-time-taken/#findComment-1609478
Share on other sites

well its simple. if they are a popular workshop then they will get stacks of emails and calls from dudes who want stuff and want advice. so they have to keep stop / strarting work on your car each time so yeah it can get sidetracked. so just add a day to whatever they've said. more often than not it will run late or delayed. its performance, theres always something gone wrong or not matched or doesnt fit etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89120-time-taken/#findComment-1609503
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...