Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey man, was just wondering:

1. with a test car, what do they do with it? Would the car be smashed and repaired and then complied??  i mean that is a weird thought because there have been thousands of  skylines brought into the country and DOTARS must already know the safety rating and stuff at the back of their heads. Why a test  car?

2 . what does "D.I." mean?

sorry for asking such basic questions,guys but i am kept in the dark from mycar and i am losing patience by the minute

1. The cars used for side intrusion tests are not the ones we are speaking of. The remainder of the tests are non destructive, so don't represent a problem. But each of the RAWS needs to present evidence of compliance with the relevant ADR's.

2. Discussion item.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HELLO everybody!! !

wOO HOO!! After 2 and half months of waiting for the compliance plates to come, they came last friday.

The car goes into its next stage of registration ,detailing and speakers & alarm installation!That's another 2 weeks but guys, thank you for listening all this while and posting your valuable comments!!

Lesson learnt:

never ever bring a freakin JDM car to the shop in Mitcham Victoria. I will be getting the name of the workshop out . bunch of wankers

still have a question nouvo33, has your workshop ever complianced R33's before your one?

and congrats with the resolution of everything!! i CANNOT wait for the day i take mine to VicRoads to get some number plates... throw the f*cking finger to DOTARs

hello Ss gohan,

yeah apparently these wankers have been in the business a long time. I think they f**ked up internally.

guys,

i found something strange. My rear windscreen is not tinted now!!

i mean, when the car first arrived, it was tinted! does compliance require rear japanese tinting tobe removed????

tinting shouldn't be a problem with compliance, only if the front windscreen is too dark. Compliance doesn't require rear and quarter window tints to be removed.

The jap rear and quarter tints are damn dark, but for some reason aren't a matter for compliance.

well if your workshop is already compliancing R33's then you're in a different boat to djr and myself. We have our cars being used as test cars for our workshops, meaning they've never done Skylines before, or our respective models of Skylines.

2.5 months, when your car WASN'T a test car is f*cking attrocious... that's even too long to blame DOTARS, as far as i know, it doesn't take them that long to send a plate, even on worst case. Sounds like the workshop dropped the ball. But this is only if your R33 wasn't a test car for them, 2.5 months as a test is brilliant, that's real quick.

razor... thanks man... i don't know how i've waited so long without going insane... it's been... f**k, 15 months now? Appreciate the comment tho..

yes daniel I would have to agree ,,if patience had a $ value ...you would be worth millions

me ..i would be bankrupt

You should have brought this up to consumer affairs or something. Compliancing definitely takes shorter than that. Did you made sure they didn't bring your car out for a drive or something?

well my bro has been going to the damn place every week. :P

as my bro was taking the car to VICROADS for registration, the car kept breaking down because the battery was as dry as a dessert!

proves that it's been sitting there for 2 months not doing anything thing.

You know what? the compliance shop is a f**k-head place. You know why? Stupid wanker didn't complete the paperwork and this had caused VICROADS to reject the car due to insufficient documentation. So, my bro rushed down to the shop yesterday at 4.50pm. Being their fault did you know what the guy said??? "we're closing now and we cannot give you the document we missed out on". :)

Really great!! My bro had to go again to get the registration done today after driving all the way down to mitcham to the compliance shop this mornign for the document that they f**king left out. :angry:

I do not want to breach the rule in this forum of slandering any shop openly but IF ANYBODY WANTS TO KNOW WHAT THIS SHOP IS CALLED, PM ME. I SHALL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW WHICH BLOODY SHOP TO STAY AWAY FROM!!!

guys, if anyone thinks I have no right to be pissed off with this shop, tell me.

well my bro has been going to the damn place every week. :D

as my bro was taking the car to VICROADS for registration, the car kept breaking down because the battery was as dry as a dessert!

proves that it's been sitting there for 2 months not doing anything thing.

You know what? the compliance shop is a f**k-head place. You know why? Stupid wanker didn't complete the paperwork and this had caused VICROADS to reject the car due to insufficient documentation.  So, my bro rushed down to the shop yesterday at 4.50pm. Being their fault did you know what the guy said??? "we're closing now and we cannot give you the document we missed out on". :)

Really great!! My bro had to go again to get the registration done today after driving all the way down to mitcham to the compliance shop this mornign for the document that they f**king left out. ;)

I do not want to breach the rule in this forum of slandering any shop openly but IF ANYBODY WANTS TO KNOW WHAT THIS SHOP IS CALLED, PM ME. I SHALL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW WHICH BLOODY SHOP TO STAY AWAY FROM!!!

guys, if anyone thinks I have no right to be pissed off with this shop, tell me.

Mate,

give them a certain time to finish complying your car. Let them know if they fail to finish by then, you will have every right to lodge a complaint to consumer affairs. Keep this number 1300 558 181. By all means if you want, tell the rest of the guys where's the shop and its details please.

Mate,

give them a certain time to finish complying your car. Let them know if they fail to finish by then, you will have every right to lodge a complaint to consumer affairs. Keep this number 1300 558 181. By all means if you want, tell the rest of the guys where's the shop and its details please.

yeah i thought abt going to consumer affairs seriously but i figured one thing. These f**kers can go into the grey area of canberra being late on the compliance.The f**king shop is ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE IMPORTS in Mitcham,VIC.

DO NOT GO THERE.

Mate,

give them a certain time to finish complying your car. Let them know if they fail to finish by then, you will have every right to lodge a complaint to consumer affairs. Keep this number 1300 558 181. By all means if you want, tell the rest of the guys where's the shop and its details please.

once i get the car back with the documents, i will see if there's more details i can disclose but by all means, pm me.

They have onviously not complied with the contract. I reckon you have good grounds to take it to another compliance shop. I would give DOTARS a call (be prepared for a wait) and ask them if you can change compliance shops. Maybe call some other compliance shops (for your model) and ask them what to do if another compliance shop fails.

:) Cheers :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...